Introduction to Hair Styling- Hair Structure
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| Basic hair structure. |
The cuticle is made up of cells. They are what make the hair shine when they are flat and closed (ie, when blow drying the hair straight) and are water repellent when in good condition.
The cortex make up the majority of the hair shaft and determines the hairs shape, strength and colour. It is the cortex that is changed when we blow dry or colour hair.
The medulla is the core of the hair shaft. It has water attracting properties and may contain some colour pigment.
The hair follicle is the tube like structure in which the hair grows.
There are three main texture types: Fine, medium and coarse.
Fine texture: Small in circumference and responds well to chemicals.
Medium texture: Slightly bigger in circumference.
Coarrse: Larger circumference and can be resistant to chemicals.
There are three different hair types: European, Afro-Caribbean and Eastern Asian.
European: Oval in shape. Can be straight, wavy or curly.
Afro-Caribbean: Kidney shaped and tightly curled.
Asian: Round in shape and usually very straight.
Hair Growth Cycle
Anagen- The active growing phase of the papilla and germinal matrix. The hair colour, thickness and shape is determined in this phase. It lasts an average of 4-7 years.
Catagen- During this phase the follicle prepares to rest. The hair bulb gradually separates from the papilla and moves up the follicle.
Telogen- This is the resting phase where there is no activity from the papilla. Toward the end of this phase, the cells prepare for the new anagen phase and the process repeats itself.
Basic Hair Science
When the hair is in it's natural state, it is described as being in an alpha keratin state.
When the hair has been wet and stretched into a new shape then dried, it is described as being in a keratin state.
The hair will return to an alpha keratin state once dampened again but not blow dried or set.
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| Hair in alpha and keratin states. |
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