14.10.14 Corrective Makeup- Corrective colour, highlight and shade techniques

14.10.14

Corrective Makeup- Corrective colour, highlight and shade techniques.

Natural sheer highlight and contour application

The first step i took in creating this makeup look was assessing my models skin to while cleansing and moisturising to see if her skin was dry or oily, for example. My model, Charlotte’s skin was clear and didn’t have any problem areas. So I began mixing up a base colour from my Morag Ross Le Maquillage palette whilst assessing her colouring. It is important to keep looking back at the model when mixing a colour to ensure it a good match. I mixed together a little bit of the neutral shade with ivory and peach tones from the palette. (124, C.1, 14). Once I was happy with the colour, I added a mixing medium (1/4 foundation to ¾ mixing medium) and buffed it into the skin. I checked my application for brush marks and worked the product into any areas that needed more coverage, like around the nose and around the eyes (added D32 to counteract any blue tones) before dusting translucent powder under the eye and around the nose. I did not powder the entire face to keep the makeup looking sheer. I powdered under the eyes to stop creasing and around the nose for shine control as this area can often become quite oily. I then dabbed a highlighter onto her cheekbones, brow bone, and bridge of her nose, cupids bow and chin. I highlighted these areas as they are most prominent from the face. I added a little translucent powder to set the highlight then began mixing a colour to use as a contour. I used Ben Nye’s Glam Shadow palette to create a contour colour that was not too brown and had some grey tones, so the colour appeared more natural. I applied the contour the cheeks, jaw line and sides of the nose. A tip for contouring is to contour where you have highlighted and vice versa.  This is what creates the 3D effect in this makeup.  The base complete, I mixed a soft pink shade to apply to the apples of my models cheeks using my Kryolan derma palette and then filled her brows using the Kryolan derma palette. Using this palette to fill the brows creates a soft natural look.  The look was complete.

Overall, I enjoyed applying this makeup more than I thought I would as I do love a Kim Kardashian highlight and contour makeup look! However, I do think this particular makeup suited my model more than a heavier application would due to her fair colouring. I felt confident mixing a base colour and blush colour but I do think the contouring could have been a bit more prominent, although it is a subtle look. If I were to work on this makeup again, I would have applied more contour colour to the cheek and jaw to change the shape of the face more.

Products used

·         Morag Ross Le Maquillage palette- shades 124, 14, C.1

·         Kryolan Derma palette- D32 under eyes, D11 on eyebrows

·         Mac Prep+Prime loose powder- Translucent

·         Nars Illuminator

·         Ben Nye Glam Shadow palette- shades Smokey Taupe, Mink Stole, Au Naturelle

·         Kryolan Rouge palette- LC003, LC006, LC007

My model Lottie with natural highlighting and contouring makeup

Soft contour on the cheek and jaw line

Me rocking the no makeup look!

Highlight and Contouring- heavier application/ Red carpet look.

For homework, I had to create a heavier highlight and contour makeup look. This involved using a full coverage foundation and applying darker shading when contouring. After cleansing, toning and moisturing, I assessed the colouring on my neck to achieve a perfect base colour, using the Morag Ross LeMaquiliage palette. I didn’t assess for colour on my forehead as I would on a client because fake tan made my neck appear darker than my face. I then applied D32 under my eyes to conceal any dark circles, before applying more base colour to any areas that needed more coverage, like around my nose. I mixed a slightly lighter colour to conceal under my eyes and blend in the D32. I lightly dusted powder over my face to set the makeup before mixing together a highlighting shade, using my Kryolan derma palette.

D32 removed any darkness under my eyes

                                         

Full coverage foundation using Morag Ross Le Maquiliage palette

. Using the same foundation brush, I highlighted my cheekbones, the bridge of my nose, cupids bow, eyebrow bone and chin. I then mixed together a contour shade using the same palette. Using the same brush once again (to help the makeup blend as the colours were quite harsh), I contoured my cheek area, temples, down the sides of my nose and along my jaw line. I blended the contour shade out until it appeared as a natural shadow. I lightly powdered again to set the makeup I had just applied, then applied an illuminating makeup to add extra highlight and give a more dramatic effect. To add a more dramatic effect to the contoured areas, I used my Ben Nye Glam shadow palette to mix a natural shadow tone and applied it sparingly over the makeup I had already applied to contour. I added grey tones to keep the shading looking natural and more like a shadow, rather than a tan line! This is when the makeup really started to come to life and have more dimension. To complete this look, I mixed together a blush tone from my Kryolan rouge palette and applied it to the apples of my cheeks and my lips with my ring finger. I assessed the colour of my every day blush and recreated it. I found this easier, now that I have revised colour theory in more depth. As advised, I used the Kryolan derma palette to fill in my brows using gentle strokes. I applied mascara and eyeliner to balance the look.

Colour match using Kryolan Rouge palette LC006, LC003, LC004, LC001

Finished look. 

Overall, this is the makeup I felt most comfortable doing. I am a massive fan of highlighting and contouring and the effects it has. It really adds dimension to the makeup. I enjoyed learning about the different methods and products that can be applied, as I have relied on the same products for years. I think Mac's Vanilla pigment works beautifully for highlighting, although I only had Benifit's Highbeam to use at home.

Problem solving

When looking back at the pictures I had taken of my makeup, I was not happy with the colour I had used to fill my eyebrows. I opted for the shade D16 in my derma palette, as I use a dark brown pencil to fill them normally. However, looking back, I noticed the colour needed more depth to match my hair colour. To correct this, I would have added a touch of eye shadow from my Ben Nye palette or mixed in shade D15 from the derma palette.