Sunday 23 November 2014

11.11.14 Lip Masterclass

11.11.14

Lip Masterclass

This lesson focused on the different products and methods of application to use for creating different lip looks, ranging from classic to high fashion styles. My tutor Branka demonstrated a classic red lip, a dark ombre lip and a glitter lip.

The classic red.
Products used
·         Mac lip pencil- Cherry
·         Mac lipstick- Ruby Woo
·         Mac Prep+Prime loose powder- Translucent


The classic red lip is timeless and is often the colour used to add a touch of glamour. There is a red tone suitable for every skin tone and once the skin undertones have been recognised, you can begin by choosing a red lipstick with more warm or cool undertones. Ruby Woo is a universal red that works well with most skin tones. 

http://bellabox.sg/magazine/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/lipstick-swatches.jpg

I began by lining my model, Molly’s lips. It is always beneficial to balance your hand while applying lip liner. It will ensure a neater lip line and give more confidence to the makeup artist. To create a neat line, I lightly leant on my models shoulder and used this arm to balance my right hand (the hand I was applying the liner with). This method of application was taught to me by Branka and it has really helped with steadying my hand and liner application. I started by lining her cupids bow, checking if they were naturally even or not and then lining the centre of her lower lip. I then joined up the two areas. I kept standing behind my model and looking at the makeup through the mirror to assess if the application was even. It wasn’t, so I kept lightly feathering the pencil onto the lip line and checking in the mirror until I was happy with the overall shape. Next I applied Ruby Woo to her lips using a lip brush and worked in the colour. Ruby Woo is a very matte lipstick so if you notice the models lips are dry when assessing, it is best to apply some balm. The last step was to matte the lip by applying translucent powder to the lip with a fluffy brush through a 1 ply tissue. Using the tissue allows a small amount of product to settle onto the lip and keep the lipstick in place. Making the lipstick matte ensures it will last longer.
Products used
·
Red lip application closeup

Red lip applocation

Products used
·         Kryoan Rouge palette- shades LC10, LC308
·         Mac Feline Khol Power liner- Black
·         Mac lipstick- Ruby Woo
Ombre Lip’s are a favourite style of mine, especially when used with dark tones. This is the style we were creating today. This vamp ombre lip was created using Kryolans rouge palette and a black liner. I began by mixing my vamp colour together and applying it over the entire lip then lined the lip using black pencil, filling in the corners of the lip completely. Lining the lip after enabled the liner to blend in with the lipstick with ease for a softer look. I then used the same brush I applied the lipstick with to blend in the black liner until no lines were visible. To complete the look and ad more depth to the ombre effect, I applied Ruby Woo to the centre of the top and bottom lip.

Vamp ombre lip



Products used
·         Mac Blacktrack
·         Vaseline
·         Fine glitter
Creating a glitter lip was a lot easier than I thought it would be. This specific lip look would be perfect for photographic work because Vaseline is used. It will eventually move around and start to break down makeup. The first step was applying Blacktrack on the entire lip.  I would never think to apply a black base to make a product stand out, usually opting for white or no base at all, but the Blacktrack worked beautifully at creating a strong flat base.  I then applied Vaseline, using the same brush over the entire lip, making sure not to miss any areas or the glitter would not stick. I then got my model, Molly to tilt her head back slightly with her mouth open slightly and loaded a clean brush with loose glitter. I gently patted on the glitter, being careful not to get any in her mouth. The glitter clung to the Vaseline immediately, which made the application quite quick.

Glitter lip close up

Glitter lip

Overall, I think I did well in all three applications and all three looks suited Molly. My favourite look to create was the ombre lip. The look I would like to practice more is the classic red as this is the lip that really needs to be perfect in shape as it is so timeless and sophisticated and does all the talking!
I practised all three looks again at home to gain confidence in the three different application techniques.

Step by step red lip

Step by step ombre lip

Step by step glitter lip

Products used




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