04.11.14 Smokey Eye Makeup

04.11.14

Smokey Eye Makeup

This lesson focused on creating a classic smokey eye, using black gel liner, along with black eye shadow for maximum effect.

After watching Branka’s demo and taking notes, I began to re-create this look on my model, Holly. After moisturising her skin (she had already cleansed) I applied gel liner to the entire upper lid and shaded it upwards, up to the crease. This would map out my areas for shading and also add depth to the colour. Once happy with the application, which had to be done relatively fast as the liner dries quickly, I began to apply and blend black eyes shadow. The eye shadow is what really creates the smokey effect, so blending evenly is important. I followed the natural lines of my models eye, so the eye shadow wasn’t taken out too far above or outward. I think when creating a black smokey eye, the shape should be kept more natural, as the darkness is so intense. To balance out the intense black makeup, I applied soft brown tones along the crease, to blend with the black shading. This softened the makeup and made it more wearable. I highlighted the brown bone and then applied the gel liner along the waterline. Applying dark liners to the waterline makes the eye appear smaller and sultry in shape, whereas a lighter shade will open up the eye and make it appear bigger.

A full coverage application works best with this particular look, as is it more suited to evening and special occasion makeup. I opted for Mac Studio Fix fluid foundation as a base, as it has a medium to full coverage. I used shade NC15 to match my models skin tone. I used Mac shade Mid-peach to conceal under her eyes. This peach shade counteracts any blue tones under her eyes, as it is opposite on the colour wheel then I applied a very light dusting of powder with a fluffy brush because the foundation is quite matte. A dewy base would complement the smokey eye, so I did not want to over powder and add anymore of a matte effect.

I contoured her cheekbones and jaw line, using the darkest shade 117 from the Morag Ross Le Maquillage Palette and blended out any harsh lines using a contour brush and my foundation brush that already had product on it. I then used Mac pigment in Vanilla to highlight above her cheekbones and down the centre of her nose. This technique, along with using brown tones with the smokey eye, adds definition and stops the makeup looking flat.

Finishing touches to the smokey eye makeup- I carefully applied black eye shadow using a small brush to line under her eyes and join it up to the black shadow applied to the upper lid and then applied mascara to the top and bottom lashes. Finally, I pencilled in her eye brows. I opted for a slightly darker shade to fill her brows, as it would complement the darkness of her eyes better.

I ran out of time before I could apply blusher and a lip colour.

Branka's demo

 

My smokey eye application on Holly

My smokey eye application on Holly OPEN

My smokey eye application on Holly CLOSED

Problem solving

This lesson concentrated on creating and applying techniques for a classic smokey eye. However, my model Holly did have misshapen eyes. If she were a client, I would have used different application techniques in an attempt to correct her eye shapes. I would have applied less shadow under her right eye, as it is bigger and lower than the left, and slightly more shadow under her left eye to make it appear bigger. I would have also not taken the shading up as high on her right upper lid to make the eye area seem smaller.

Overall, I really enjoyed creating this makeup look. I had never actually created a black smokey eye and had always opted for brown tones. I think my blending and shading techniques were applied well. Once I had applied the gel liner over the lid, my confidence grew with blending the different brown and black tones to create this sultry look. I am disappointed I didn’t finish in time; although I am pleased I completed the eye makeup.

Products used

·         Mac gel liner- Blacktrack

·         Ben Nye Glam Shadow palette- shades Shell, Mink Stole, Coco Brown

·         Mac eyebrow pencil- Lingering

·         Mac Haute & Naughty mascara- Black

·         Mac Studio Fix fluid foundation- NC15

·         Mac Pro concealer palette- Mid-peach

·         Mac Prep+Prime looe powder- Translucent

·         Morag Ross Le Maquillage palette-  117

·         Mac pigment- Vanilla