21.10.14 Corrective Makeup Techniques- Eye shapes

21.10.14

Corrective Makeup Techniques- Eye shapes

Eye liner.

This lesson concentrated on eyeliner application techniques, different brushes and products that can be used and different shapes that can be made.

Eyeliner can come in the form of aqua colour, gel, pencil, cake and liquid. They will all create different textures, shades and shapes and suit different looks.
Branka demonstrated using a cake liner with a thin brush and gel liner with an angled brush to show the different ways eyeliner can be applied.

My model requested a thin line, so I tried to please her needs as well as fit the brief. I used aqua colour and a detail liner (BC480) to line her right eye, starting from the centre. I then got my model, Zainab, to look to her right, while I lined to the inner corner of her eye. This would help avoid blinking and panic as the brush comes towards her eye! Finally, with my models eye closed. I lifted the outer corner of her eye from her eyebrow, to create a nice raised shape to apply the flick. As the eyeliner was applied so thinly, I didn’t bring the flick out too far opting for a subtler look.

Aqua colour

 I applied gel liner to Zainab’s left eye, using an angled brush (BC510). Again, I lined from the centre and filled the line to the inner corner. In contrast to the application before, I created the flick from the outer corner and worked my way in to the centre. This technique was made easier using the angled brush, although I favoured the other technique.

Gel liner

I found using the gel liner more difficult than I thought it would be. I only really have experience using eye pencils and liquid to line. I found it did not glide on s well as the aqua colour, which made keeping the line coherent a litter tougher. This can be seen on Zainab’s left eye. The line needed to be made thicker toward the outer corner. A rigid line is clearly visible.

The next part of the lesson required creating a high fashion makeup look, including eyeliner techniques. I decided to apply eyeliner under each eye in a circle. The circles would have to be neat and symmetrical and lay on the bottom lash line.
I applied a full coverage foundation to compliment this high fashion look, using Mandy Gold and Morag Ross Le Maquillage palettes along with Kryolans derma palette. I am really interested in makeup for darker skin tones and I really assessed Zainab's skin to achieve the correct colour and avoid the skin looking ashy. This can be a common problem with darker skin tones, especially black and Asian skin. Zainab's skin has very warm gold tones, especially around her cheeks so I gradually mixed colours, avoiding any pale shades of yellow. I think my interest in makeup for black skin really helped with my foundation selections for her base makeup. I was able to distinguish that her skin had golden undertones, rather than red for example.
I set the base with Ben Nye’s banana powder, as this shade really enhances her natural gold tones without making darker areas of her face look ashy.  I contoured her cheeks and jaw line to slim her face and highlighted her nose, brow bone and cheekbones. Thee Vanilla pigment worked beautifully with her skin tone and gave the makeup a nice clean and fresh look.
I used the aqua colour to apply my eyeliner design, as it is more movable than the gel liner. I opted for the thin brush for precision. After placing a dot under each eye for a guide, I filled the area, making sure to keep each dot as symmetrical as I could. I did not apply mascara to the bottom lashes, as it would distract from the design.
To complete this high fashion look, a bold lip was needed.  I opted for a red lip, to compliment Zainab’s golden skin tone. Mac’s Ruby Woo really warmed up the entire look and added a simple, yet effective edge.

High Fashion makeup look

High Fashion makeup look

Overall, I am really pleased with the finished makeup look. I think it really fit the brief of being a high fashion look. I gained some confidence with my eyeliner application after seeing the results and how pleased my model was with the end result. I can feel my confidence growing with foundation colours and application too.


Products used
Morag Ross Le Maquillage palette- C.1
Mandy Gold Le Maquillage palette- 59, 182
Krolan derma colour palette- D13 (added to make base colour) D32 (under eye correction)
Mac pigment- Vanilla (to highlight)
Ben Nye eye shadow- Mink Sole, Coco Brown, Au Naturelle, Cobblestone (to contour)
Kryolan Aquacolour- Black
Mac lipstick- Ruby Woo
Ben Nye- Banana powder

Fashion eye liner practice

Dramatic Eyeliner

I decided to practice my eyeliner techniques at home. I used Mac Blacktrack, as this was the product I struggled with most in class. I began by assessing my eye shape. As my eyelids are not hooded or bulged, I do not face too many problems with eye liner shapes. If I were to apply a basic eye liner on a hooded eye, I would make the line a lot thinner, so some of the lid was still on show. I would also concentrate more on the outer corners of the eye to make the eye appear wider.

To create this look, I followed the natural lines of my eye shape, along the top lash line and crease line to gather a fluid design that complemented my natural shape. I built upon this until I was happy with the shape, then concentrated on making my points neat. I then incorporated eye shadow into this look to show how the look could be adapted.