Evaluation

My two years spent studying specialist makeup at West Thames College has been harder but more rewarding than I thought.

 I began studying the basics of fashion makeup, which I thought was imperative to building my skills as a confident makeup artist in the different aspects of makeup varying from fashion to theatre. These lessons enabled me to broaden my knowledge of the fashion industry and its ever changing trends in hair and makeup. It has left me with a keen interest in fashion makeup and I will continue to research the different looks to keep my skills and makeup applications fresh and up to date.

Period hair and makeup was a challenging yet rewarding learning experience and I am grateful to have been taught the technicalities of period hair by Samantha Smart, who made each hair style look easy! I struggled the most with period hair but plan to utilise my time once I have graduated to practise all the styles more, as Britain is known for its period dramas in TV and theatre.

Another challenging makeup technique learnt was theatrical makeup, suitable for the stage. This very specific type of makeup application ranged from ballet makeup and aging makeup to making and applying bald caps. My passion for theatrical makeup as well as amazing teaching by Tanya Noor, enabled me to enjoy and pass this unit of work!

My favourite skill learnt and unit of work completed was learning all of the different aspects of hair and makeup suitable for TV and film, as it varied so much and encouraged me to look at time periods in depth to really capture a character and portray them accurately to the setting, time period and use application techniques suitable for the screen.

Other engaging units of work included body painting and special effects makeup. They both required knowledge of anatomy and health and safety, which is imperative when working in this industry, as the models as well as my own safety, is paramount in getting good results. West Thames were always very adamant that health and safety was top priority, which has disabled me from picking up any bad habits and has allowed me to apply health and safety checks naturally.

I felt I excelled in most units as I enjoyed leaning about them all so much. I am most proud of my character design projects from theatre and film and TV hair and makeup lessons the most and I am so proud of the characters I created not only through hair and makeup but from in depth research of time periods and other productions. My theatrical character project saw me create a character suitable for the stage incorporating a bald cap. I decided to incorporate theatrical aging techniques too and recreated the character of Dr Coppelius as I saw him, after in depth research. Another character I created was for TV and film. I created Fanny Wagtail, a prostitute from the 18^th century. I believe both character makeup’s were marked as distinctions due to my in depth research of character traits and time periods as well as learning application techniques learnt in class.

West Thames has given me the chance to work at London Fashion Week and on the set of Mr Selfridge, which were not only amazing experiences but allowed me to gain an understanding of what to expect including early starts, call sheets and etiquette.

From here, I would love to begin working as an assistant on set of a drama series, sitcom or soap and feel prepared for this due to work experience and lessons in understanding call sheets and filling out continuity sheets. I am also interested in adding more artistic images to my portfolio and gaining work experience in the theatre. I believe my ongoing passion for creative makeup and broad teaching of industry techniques will ensure a successful career within the industry that I am so ready for.

I would like to thank my tutors Emma Croombs (who was always so helpful with tips about working on set), Magdelana Sprenger (who taught us all about sfx products and the  importance of realism when creating wounds), Samantha Smart (who is a hair wizard), Branka Vorkapic (who amazed me with her brush work), Denise Delaney (who was always so encouraging and passionate about all of our designs) Tanya Noor (who made the hardest theatrical makeup applications look easy) and last but not least, Fiona Heath (who spoke about art in all forms so passionately). 

 

The Final Piece- The Show... Exodus

So came the day of the show where I would exhibit my final design in a choreographed catwalk show. In this post, I will note any changed I made to the makeup, hair and costume design and evaluate how successful my piece was as a whole.

Makeup application

The only changes I made to the makeup on the day involved the snow decoration on the face and hair. Instead of only using snow paste, I applied artificial snow and silver leaf on top to add more texture. I thought the silver leaf would add a pop of colour that would match the mirrored pieces on the top piece well.

Hair

As I was unaware of the exact length and texture of my model’s hair, I had to wait until the day of the show to know exactly what I was doing. However, I was prepped for all lengths and thicknesses and had noted designs for each type in a previous blog post. My models hair turned out to be shoulder length and very, very fine, so I could not add too much height to it. Due to this, I opted for the design which incorporated backcombing sections of the hair to make the hair look knotted. I tried this and did not like it, so I opted for the idea which incorporated twist. I twisted random sections of hair and backcombed the bottom section to hold the twist in place. I really liked this and thought it made the hair look like icicles.

Costume

As the costume was made to measure to my model, I did not have to change anything!! Both the top and the skirt fit her perfectly.

Overall, I am really pleased with the whole look, including my models performance. I told her to walk down the catwalk slowly with the belief she was better than everyone else to fit the snow queen character and she performed beautifully, blowing artificial snow out of the palms of her hands at the end of the runway. I would not change a thing about my design and could not be prouder.

                                 

The Final Assessment Photographic Shoot- Evaluation

On the 26^th May, I completed an almost full run through of the final hair, makeup and costume design. The only elements of the design I did not include were the false nails, as they were not completed in time and the thorn prosthetics and fullers earth. I did not include the thorn prosthetics as they are quite delicate and I did not want to risk damaging them before the final show. I used a different model to the one I have booked for the final show.

 Makeup plan

Prep skin

·         Block brows

·         Apply white aqua colour over brows

·         Apply eye makeup- all shadows, white eye liner

·         Apply base makeup

·         Set

·         Paint lashes white

·         Apply white liner again

·         Apply false lashes- top and bottom

·         Apply lip

·         Apply snow paste to forehead and around eyes

·         Dot aqua colour onto eyes and lips

Evaluation of makeup

I am very pleased with the whole makeup look I deigned and think it turned out better that I expected. After a previous trial which I did on myself resulted in the snow paste mixing with the foundation and pink tones blended onto the face, I did not apply any foundation to the areas where I would late be adding snow paste. I also applied a little less pink lip stick onto the cheek bone area and pressed powder into it to help set it into the skin. I found doing this worked and the snow paste stayed white throughout the application.

I really like all the colours used and the small dot details with the aqua colour, as well as the lip shape, which I will not change.

What I will change

I think I may add a bit of artificial snow onto the areas where the snow paste will be added to add a bit more texture. I will also take it further into the hair.

                                                                                                       

                                                       

Hair plan

·         Brush hair through

·         Straighten

·         Brush hair back

·         Back brush with all hair away from face

·         Place headdress and secure in place

·         Pull 1 section of hair from each side round the headdress to cover grips

·         Apply snow paste

Evaluation of hair

I am pleased with how the hair looked in relation to the theme and costume design. I like the way the straight hair ends fell between the icicles on the shoulders of the costume so I am pleased I opted to keep the hair worn down. I also think having the hair poker straight coincided nicely with the straight lines of the headdress and the icicles.

What I will change

Dependent on my models hair on the day, I may backcomb the top section of the hair directly behind the tiara to help disguise the back part of it.

Costume plan

·         Apply pros-aide to shoulders and neck

·         Apply pros-aide to shoulders and neck of costume

·         Lay onto skin

·         Apply pros-aide to sides of costume and skin

·         Step model into skirt

Evaluation of costume

I found working with the tiara and skirt easy and will not have to change anything to my design. However, I am a little worried about the top piece I have made as it did not fit the model I used for the photo shoot as she was bigger than the model I have booked for the final show. Due to this, I have asked my model to send me some specific measurements from her shoulders so I can alter the piece in time if need be. 

 

Budgeting and Costs

For my final design, I aimed to spend around £80 on materials and was willing to pay around £100+ for a model for the final show. Below I have compiled a list of the items I have purchased and money spent.

Hot glue- £10

Artificial snow- £5

Glass- £2.99

Diamantes- £0.89

Netting- £20

Top lashes- £10.50

Bottom lashes- £10.50

Snow paste- £6

Cellophane- £1.49

Petal veiners- £5.89

Nails- £1.99

Silver leaf- £1.50

Elastic-£1.50

Postage and packaging for all items- £15

Total= £93.25

Model- £150

Grand total- £243.25

Hair Design- Ideas and Practise

As I am still unaware of who my model will be, I am left unsure about what to do with the hair. Due to this, I have decided to leave the hair quite simplistic, so that I don't feel unprepared by the time I find a model.

I have listed an idea for each hair type, although I am looking for a blonde model.

Short hair- Finger wave with fullers earth and artificial snow outlining the curves that fall onto the forehead.

Mid length- Add texture and shape into the hair, twisting two sections around one another then back combing the ends to make the hair look slightly knotted, keeping the hair looking natural. Bring two sections of hair back , covering the headdress clips.

Long- Add loose waves using heated tools, back comb hair at crown into a beehive. Add more texture into the hair by back combing the ends.

Fine hair- Use postiche brush and texturising spray to add depth, volume and texture into the hair.

Thick hair- Setting lotion and heated tools to keep the hair under control. Twist hair and backcomb ends.


I am also keen to add some of the snow paste into the hair, as it looks really good when applied to beards and eye brows in films such as Everest. I would like to carry it on from the face application, taking the product into the front part of the hair, then sprinkle on a small amount of artificial snow.

Makeup Practise

I then practiced this look on myself ahead of the assessment photographic shoot...

Creating the eye makeup

• Apply spirit gum to eye brow and flatten with spatula
• Apply powder to get rid of tackiness 
• Brush white aqua colour over entire brow, flicking upwards
• Line directly under brow with pink eye/lip pencil and blend with brush
• Blend Ben Nye Brownberry into the line
• Blend pink eye shadow and Mac blush in Melba into Brownberry
• Blend silver shadow below and onto the entire top lid
• Use pink pencil to line under eye
• Fill in area with Brownberry
• Highlight inner corner with Mac silver pigment
• Line waterline with Kryolan white pencil
• Brush white aqua colour onto top and bottom lashes 
• Apply white lashes
• Use spatula to spread snow paste over brows and up onto forehead and into hair line
• Add artificial snow to snow paste 
• Dot white aqua colour along inner part of eye

Problem Solving 

Whilst I was applying the snow paste, I noticed that it began to pick up the colour from the foundation and lipstick I had applied prior, as a base makeup. This resulted in parts of the now paste becoming stained pink and peach, so the next time I apply this makeup, I will avoid applying foundation to this area and set the pink part of the base makeup with a lot of powder. 

Creating the lip

• Apply Kryolan rouge shade LC001 onto lip with finger- light application 
• Slightly over line top lip- don't take line to corners of lip
• Line bottom lip, taking the line slightly inwards 
• Dot white aqua colour following natural lip line on top and bottom outer corners of lips

Makeup Designs... Face charts

After researching items that elate to my idea, including snow and ice, flowers, natural phenomena, fashion pieces and hair and makeup designs, I sketched a few makeup designs that were generated from my research. 
This look has a soft feel, incorporating a light eye makeup with shimmering silver linear highlights along the top lid along with a soft pink cheek and blended ombre lip. The pink tons compliment the pink rose/ watermelon snow theme while the white and silver tones reflect the snow/ice. I would use my MUF flash palette to create this look, as it is an easy makeup product to blend with bright colours.

This look is bolder than the first design and has more of an earthy/tribal feel. The bold pink tones on the cheek, chin and temples alongside the powerful eye makeup create a powerful look, while the white lip and eyebrows, enhanced with snow paste relate to the snow theme. I would brush spirit gum into the eyebrows to create texture before applying powder then panting over white aqua colour over them and the lip. I would then apply snow paste directly from the jar. 

This is the idea I have chosen to represent the snow/ice queen character for my final deign piece. I have chosen this design as I think it sit between being a powerful yet soft makeup look, just like snow. I have decided to use sow paste on the eyebrows forehead and just around the eye along with blending pink tones around it. The lips are also pink and are detailed with small white dots, as are the eyes. I have done this to look like snow while also adding a touch of tribal power to the look.