Creating free hand face lace and incorporating into a makeup look

Today’s lesson focused on creating a high fashion makeup using free hand liner techniques and incorporating texture with the use of cotton.

In order to make this look high fashion and relevant to SS15 trends, I blocked out the eyebrows to enhance the shape and lines I would create over the face later. I blocked out the eyebrows by brushing spirit gum through my models eyebrows in a backwards and forwards direction to coat all the hairs. I then brushed the eyebrow hairs upwards to create a flat space. I used my spatula to really flatten the hairs. I then used MME and a cotton bud to remove any excess spirit gum from the skin then set the spirit gum loose powder.

To conceal the eyebrows, I swept D32 over the eyebrows, as this particular shade adds warmth and flesh tones into the darkened area then set this with more loose powder. To further conceal, I stippled Kryolan dermacolor concealers in shades D3 and D4 to match my models natural skin tone. I then set this layer of makeup on place with more loose powder then finally swept the eye shadow shade ‘Shell’ over the brows for an extra touch of colour to conceal the eyebrows.

Next, I moved on to create a flawless full coverage base, incorporating highlighting and contouring techniques. I began by applying Mac Studio Fix Foundation with a foundation brush and used a smaller, fluffier brush to buff in and wipe away and extra product, for an even base. I then applied a contour shade (shade 117 from my Morag Ross Le Maquillage palette) to her cheekbones, jaw line, temples and top of her forehead and blended thoroughly, using my foundation brush. I mixed shade 070 from my Kryolan Supracolor palette to the foundation I had already applied to create a highlight shade. I applied this shade to the centre of her forehead, down the bridge of her nose, along the top of her cheek bones and on her chin and along her cupids bow. I opted to only apply a highlighting shade to my models nose as it is very small and it did not require contouring for the appearance of a smaller nose. I blended this shade in using a clean brush to keep the highlighting tone looking bright. I applied a touch more concealer uder her eyes, as they did not require a heavy camouflage concealer as the full coverage foundation concealed any dark circles enough. I then set the base makeup with a dusting of translucent powder.

I then began working on creating a decorative pattern around her eye and over the blocked out brows. I began by adding water to a black aquacolor until I achieved the correct consistency, which had to be thick enough to create a bold black line but runny enough for me to be able to sweep a neat line over her face. I practised creating the correct consistency and sweeping neat lines on the back of my hand until I felt brave enough to apply the product to the skin.

Once I had mapped out the line I was going to create in my head, I used my little finger to help balance my hand then swept the linear pattern around her eyes.

Once the pattern as complete, I incorporated another pattern by using cotton, which I placed onto the face using liquid latex. I created circular shapes to complement the curves I had previously brushed on.

Overall, I am pleased with the finished result. I think my lines are very neat and precise, which is a bit of a shock seeing as this was my first time creating lines like this on the face! I am also pleased with my base application and techniques used to block out the eyebrows as they are both very neat and I managed to apply both a lot quicker than I would have done a few months ago! However, if I were to re-do this makeup, I would apply less liquid latex, as it can be seen in the picture. It was very fiddly, so I would also use tweezers to help me place the cotton onto the latex. I would also conceal the brows a little more especially in the middle, by using a touch more D32 and skin matching camouflage concealrs.