Blocking Out and Bleached Eyebrows Effects

Bleached eyebrows have become a staple in the world of high fashion and have been seen gracing the cat walk in Paris for Givenchy's Spring/Summer 2015 with makeup by Pat McGrath as well as Mar Jacobs Autumn/Winter 2014 collection with makeup by Francois Nars.

Bleached brows A/W 14 and S/S 15

Bleached eyebrows are achieved by simply dying the brows with peroxide and can be dyed back to their natural colour easily. However, as a makeup artist it is imperative to know other methods of creating a bleached brow effect as dying them is not always an option. Makeup, such as Kryolan Derma concealers can be used to achieve this effect.
Firstly, you begin by combing a small amount of spirit gum though the eyebrows, going against the hair them combing back into place. Next, I mixed together shades [  ] from my Dermacolor palette to create a light shade with yellow tones and swept it over the eyebrow with a flat brush. It is important to ensure all hairs are covered by getting between gaps in the eyebrow and brushing the product through against the natural way the hairs lay. I then us the shade 'Shell' from my Ben Nye Glam Shadow pallet to set the products in the brow and to further conceal.

If the eyebrows or part of the eyebrows are required to be removed completely, special effects makeup can be used to achieve this look. I create this effect by combing spirit gum through the hair and repeating this while adding more spirit gum. I then used my spatula to flatten the hairs upwards as this will stop the appearance of ridges. To further conceal any ridges and appearance of hairs, I took a small piece of wax and warmed it up in my fingers to make it more pliable and worked it over the entire eyebrow until it was smooth. It is important to assess the eyebrows you are working with to ensure the correct materials and application methods are applied to gain ample coverage. If the eyebrows are very thick, a sealer can be applied over the wax, however, it does have a shiny finish and can be tricky to work with when being photographed.

I then set the wax with translucent loose powder and dusted off the access before applying D32 to add warm tones and disguise the darkness of the brow and set with powder again. Next, I mixed together various camouflage concealers that matched my skin tone and carefull dabbed it over the D32. I set with powder once again then mixed a small amount of Mac Face and Body with the concealer to help blend out the edges. I set with powder again.

Blocking out eyebrows step-by-step. Image 1- applying soap to flatten; image 2- applying D32; image 3- applying camouflage concealer

References

bleached brows 1/2- Cosmouk.cdnds.net, (2015). [online] Available at: http://cosmouk.cdnds.net/14/40/768x576/nrm_1411983690-cara-delevingne-rosie-huntington-whiteley-givenchy-ss15-pfw.jpg [Accessed 7 Feb. 2015].

bleached brows 3- Makeupforlife.net, (2015). [online] Available at: http://makeupforlife.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/mannequin-makeup-marc-jacobs-aw-2014.jpg [Accessed 7 Feb. 2015].

bleached brows 4- Assets-archive.harpersbazaar.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://assets-archive.harpersbazaar.co.uk/cm/harpersbazaaruk/images/mp/AW14B-McQueen-0011.jpg [Accessed 7 Feb. 2015].

bleached brows 5- Assets-archive.harpersbazaar.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://assets-archive.harpersbazaar.co.uk/cm/harpersbazaaruk/images/k2/AW14B-JPG-0241.jpg [Accessed 7 Feb. 2015].

bleached brows 6- Assets-archive.harpersbazaar.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://assets-archive.harpersbazaar.co.uk/cm/harpersbazaaruk/images/Mc/AW14B-Givenchy-0161.jpg [Accessed 7 Feb. 2015].

bleached brows 7- Assets-archive.harpersbazaar.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://assets-archive.harpersbazaar.co.uk/cm/harpersbazaaruk/images/gY/MMissoni-clp-A-RF14-6030.jpg [Accessed 7 Feb. 2015].

bleached brows 8- Assets-archive.harpersbazaar.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://assets-archive.harpersbazaar.co.uk/cm/harpersbazaaruk/images/FM/LErdem-RF14-0190.jpg [Accessed 7 Feb. 2015].