Final Design Image

I chose this image to appear on the cover as I think the composition showed the hair and makeup off well. The main focus of his image is definitely the glittery and textured eye makeup, as intended. And although the cover image is not a playful as some of the other images I had to choose from to fit the theme, I think this image is still fun and eye catching due to the use of props and makeup. I am really pleased with my final design, as I think I really stuck to the brief and kept things within a structured theme despite the various influences I incorporated into my overall design.

Other images I had to choose from

Planning the shoot- Budgeting and costs

I am aware from previous photo shoots I have been on that booking a photographer at a location with a makeup and hair artist can cost up to £500 for a full day. I also read on the Mac Pro forum that when hired outside of a packaged deal, makeup artist usually charge around £250 for a shoot with touch ups throughout. Hiring a graphic artist to alter an image can also be very costly as well as hiring a model for the day, costume, hairstyling tools, makeup, props and travel! I took all of these elements into consideration when putting my ideas together for the shoot.

I looked on StarNow for a model and photographer and advertised for a photographer with a studio and a model both willing to do the shoot for free but gaining experience and shots for their portfolios. To my surprise, a lot more photographers and models answered the ad than I originally thought.

Sourcing a photographer: When looking for a suitable photographer, I sourced the state and location of the studio and looked for recommendations and previous works to gain a sense of their interests and style of work. I picked the photographer I did as his work was very colourful and bright, which matched my vision and his studio was located in an area I was familiar with and easy to get to (it was located opposite a train station). Some photographers that answered the advert on StarNow used ‘urban studios’, which I found out meant they were outside! This would not have been convenient or fair on my model as I wanted her to lie down wearing no more than a little lace, so finding a photographer with a suitable studio was important! 

Photographer used: Pedro Garcia- pixelupstudio.com 

Sourcing a model: When looking for a suitable model, height was not an issue, as she would only be required for a beauty shot. I was searching for a model with blonde hair for the typical Barbie look displayed at Moschino SS15. I picked the model I did as she was located in London and had previously worked in the Burlesque industry and she was happy to bring some accessories with her which suited the look I wanted to achieve.

Costume and accessories: As me and my model are both interested in all things pink, girly and sparkly, together we were able to put together suitable costumes and accessories to use for the shoot. This helped when budgeting for the shoot, as I did not have to buy and additional items.

Props: My idea to us confetti, inspired by Love magazine’s Fall 2014 cover featuring Cara Delevingne saw me look at buying confetti in bulk as well as in individual packets. However, the amount I wanted for my shoot would see me spending over £30! To keep costs down, I decided to buy a heart shaped hole punch and some crepe paper. The hold punch cost £4 and the multipack of crepe paper cost £3. I then spent two days punching holes! I also cut up some white netting that I had lying around to make a short veil.

Editor: To keep costs down, I asked a friend who studied animation at university to turn my image into a magazine cover by adding the required logo. As he is a very good friend of mine, he did it for free!

Hair and makeup: luckily, due to my love of makeup and all things pink, I did not have to buy many additional makeup items for my kit. The only item I ordered was a Nyx Creme Glitter Palette which was in the sale for £2.50 (previously £6) and some loose cosmetic glitter which was in the sale for £2. I also have an extensive collection of gems and sequins which I usually use for nail art that I used to create the Ashish inspired eye makeup. Luckily, I had all the hair products required to create the soft crimped hairstyle. I used my college hair kit as well as my own hair straighteners and hair products.

Overall, including travel, this shoot cost me under £20!!

The Day of the Shoot!!

And so the day of the fashion shoot came. Me and my fellow class mate, Charlotte Forrester made the decision to book a photographer and studio session together as we thought it would be beneficial for cost, safety and confidence when experiencing out first independent shoot. Together, we found a photographer through StarNow who we chose to work with after looking at recommendations, previous work and location. We found our models individually. I chose my model based on her previous work and hair colour. My model’s previous experience working in the burlesque industry stood out to me as she not only had body confidence but she could portray a sense of playfulness though her work. I wanted my magazine cover to be fun, colourful, playful, cheeky, feminine and girly and I believed my models blonde hair and burlesque qualities could help achieve this.

I met my model at Hammersmith train station and we travelled one stop together to the studio where we met the photographer. During this time together, I spoke more about the brief and what I expected (We had had many facebook conversations already in which I asked if she had any allergies or queries) and ensured she felt relaxed about the day. Charlotte Forrester arrived with her model shortly after. After I gave the photographer a mood board containing ideas for the shoot, I set up my work station and washed my hands. I began braiding my models hair and securing then I held hair straighteners over each braid to create a soft crimp in the hair. I opted to create the crimp this way as I thought it would create a softer crimp than a hair crimper would and also because this was the technique applied by the team for Ryan Lo for SS15 Fashion Week. I then left the hair to completely cool and set.

Next, I unplugged and moved the heated appliance out of the way and washed my hands again. I then cleansed my models skin and assessed it as I did so. As I was applying glitter to her eyes, I decided to apply the eye makeup first so I could clean up and spillages of glitter before creating a clean base. To further shield the face from glitter, I applied a powder guard under her eyes. I then patted a pink eye shadow to the entire lid and up to the brow to act as a base colour underneath the glitter I would then be applying. Although most of the glitter I would be using was cream based, I chose to sweep a thin layer of clear lip gloss to help the glitter products adhere further and help stop the makeup from creasing. After doing so, I applied three different cream glitter including a white, glitter, silver glitter and pink glitter. The last type of glitter I applied was a fine loose pink glitter, which I carefully patted onto the entire lid and up to the brow using the end of my brush.  (All glitter products were approved for cosmetic use and are part of the Schedule 5 listing, Cosmetic Products Safety Regulations).  I then dusted away the powder guard and applied silver eye shadow, followed by silver cream glitter along my models lower lash line. To finish, I stuck various gems and sequins to the top lid and lined the bottom lash line with silver gems. I used eyelash glue to adhere the gems after checking my model was not allergic to latex.

I then used celotape to pick up any glitter fallout then moisturised my models skin. I noticed her skin was dry in some areas, so I applied hydrating moisturiser generously and allowed it to soak in while I mixed together a suitable base foundation. I then swept Mac Strobe cream over her skin for a healthy glow. I worked two different foundations into her skin- Mac Studio Fix foundation and Mac Face and Body. I applied the Studio Fix foundation first then sheered it out slightly by buffing Face and Body foundation over and into it with a different brush. I dabbed a small amount of D32 under her eyes to conceal any dark circles then blended the foundation over it. I did not use any concealer as I wanted the base makeup to look very clean, sheer and natural. And luckily my model had blemish free skin. To keep in with the skin looking fresh, light and dewy, I opted for a cream blush over a powder product, as it would cause the cheeks to look too matte. I used my ring finger to dab and blend a small amount of rose coloured cream blush onto the apples of her cheeks for a hint of subtle colour. I did not use the blush shade to contour the face to keep the skin looking fresh and natural.

To set the makeup I swept a small amount of Prep+Prime loose powder over her ace, concentrating mostly on her T-zone, which could later become oily, especially under the photographic lighting. Selecting a powder for photographic shoots is vital as it can show up under strong photographic lighting. Using HD powders (which work well on TV) will show up under photographic lighting and make the makeup look messy and unprofessional.

Once I was happy with the base, I applied the lip gloss. I dabbed foundation onto my models lip before applying the pink gloss to help the colour pop a bit more.

I then dressed her hair out into a side parting and added volume and fun movement by back combing the hair. I then created two pin curls at the back of her head, which I then cross gripped. These pin curls would help keep the veil in place, as I clipped it to the pin curls.

I then added bold and blingy accessories, which could be seen at SS15 Fashion Week at shows including Ashish, Moschino, Betsey Johnson and Ryan Lo. I added a tiara, diamante rings, bracelets and necklaces in silver and pink- the more the better! I then asked my model to get changed into a pink lacy crop top that I had bought for the shoot. I chose to dress my model in this as the bright pink colour was representative of the colours featured in Moschino’s designs and the lacy lingerie was representative of Betsey Johnson’s wedding lingerie range for ‘Prenup’. My model would later change into a mint green and baby pink costume which also complimented the looks depicted in my chosen inspirational trends from SS15. 

Problems that occurred/ Problem solving

Her eye makeup creasing became a returning factor, which I did not think would happen because when I practised the makeup on myself, the makeup did not crease at all in the time period I was wearing it. However, I understand that everyone is different and makeup can look and react differently on certain skin colours and types so I made sure I kept retouching the eye makeup throughout the shoot whenever the photographer stopped. Nevertheless, the eye Makeup creasing was not a massive issue, as it could not be seen hen her eyes were open. Minor difficulties that occurred included forgetting to bring a bag to put any tissues, used cotton buds etc in (school boy error!) and not having an appropriate work station to work at. I did not have a mirror to work from and was quite immovable in a small area next to a massive plant! To make the best of a bad situation, I got my model to sit facing the window so I had as much light to work with as possible and kept standing back to view the makeup for continuity. 

Behind the Scenes. GETTING INVOLVED!

My model’s large tattoo’s would have been an issue if I were to use her for a shoot suitable for Vogue but I do not feel the tattoo’s were unsuited for a cover for LOVE magazine due to this daring and Avant-gard take on fashion. I also though her tattoo’s matched the overall look well as they were made up of pink, lilac and blue tones, similar to the confetti. I also thought using a tattoo’s model fit in well with some of the “unconventional” models used at SS15 Fashion Week. Betsey Johnson’s ‘Prenup’ featured men in full makeup wearing wedding dresses and the beautiful Winnie Harlow modelled for Ashish. I am a massive supporter of seeing peoples beauty whatever choice they make or however they look, as is Betsey Johnson and designers for Ashish. I did not want to mask my models tattoo's that make her who she is. 

My model's tattoo's were not an issue when conducting and styling this shoot.

The beautiful Winnie Harlow modelling for Ashish and one of the fierce drag queens modelling for Betsey Johnson. 

References
Image Winnie Harlow for Ashish- Cosmouk.cdnds.net, (2015). [online] Available at: http://cosmouk.cdnds.net/14/38/1600x800/nrm_1410947490-ashish-winnie-harlow.jpg [Accessed 22 Feb. 2015].
Image Drag Queen for Betsey Johnson- Lovelace-media.imgix.net, (2015). [online] Available at: http://lovelace-media.imgix.net/getty/455205904.jpg?w=778&h=598&fit=max&q=70 [Accessed 22 Feb. 2015].

Face/ Hair Chart for Final Design and Makeup Practise

Makeup

Prep: cleanse and moisturise skin (moisturiser used on the day is dependent on models skin type- if it is oily I will use Simple Oil Balancing moisturiser. If her skin is dry, I will use Simple Hydrating moisturiser). I will then sweep Mac Strobe cream over her skin.

Base: for decent coverage but natural looking base, I will use a combination of Mac Studio Fix foundation (for coverage) and Mac Face and Body (dewy finish). I will hide any dark circles with D32 and conceal any blemishes with Kryolan Dermacolor Camouflage concealer. I will then set the makeup (to help the makeup last longer under studio lighting) with a small amount of Mac Prep+Prime translucent powder. I will then apply a cream blush (Rimmel Wake Me Up in Radiant Rose) to the apples of her cheeks to keep the makeup looking fresh and not too caked on with more powder products.

Eyes: I will apply a powder guard to protect the skin from any glitter. I will begin by applying Rimmel eye shadow (the pink shadow from the Sweet Smoulder quad palette) to the entire lid, up to the eyebrow then layer on various shades of cream glitter (NYX Glitter Cream palette- white, silver and pink) then dab on a small amount of lip gloss for the NYX loose glitter in Hot Pink to cling to. I will then dot eyelash glue over the lids and stick on various gems and sequins. Apply the silver eye shadow shade from the Sweet Smoulder quad along the lower lash line. I will then dot eyelash glue over the shadow and stick on larger silver gems.

Eyebrows: eyebrows will be kept natural to not distract attention from the glitter makeup (same caution has been taken with the eyelashes, which have also been left to not distract from the glitter). Eyebrows will be combed and neat.

Lips: Lips will not be lined to make them appear more naturally shaded pink for a girly fun feel. I will apply a small amount foundation to the lip to help the colour look brighter then sweep over Mac Viva Glam Nicki pink lip glass to resemble one of the lip shades featured at Moschino SS15 Fashion Week. 

Hair

Prep: Brush the hair through and section into various 2 inch pieces and plait. Secure the ends with elastic ties, spray with a minimal amount of hair spray and hold hair straighteners over the plaits. Leave to cool.

Dress out: Remove the elastics and loosen the braids with fingers. Rustle the hair and back comb top and bottom sections for added volume.

Create two pin curls along two sides of the middle section of the head and cross grip for the veil to be secured to. Spritz with hair spray.

Step by step images of practice makeup for final design

Step by step images of practice hair for final design.

Mood Board for Final Design

References

Ryan Lo hair image- Pbs.twimg.com, (2015). [online] Available at: https://pbs.twimg.com/media/BxpMwXDIIAAu_Fe.jpg [Accessed 12 Feb. 2015].

Choosing a magazine that would complement my ideas...

Immediately after deciding to create a fun, vibrant, playful and youthful cover, I was drawn to magazines like POP and LOVE magazine, as I think their representation of fashion is a lot more daring, vibrant and youthful.

Whilst researching the two magazines, I found that LOVE magazine not only inspired me the most due to it's vibrant and different themes but it also fit the brief of my themed shoot the most due to the magazines use of cartoon effects and girly and fun themes with an edge. Some examples that inspired me are shown below.

The cover that inspired and excited me the most features Cara Delevigne on the Fall 2014 issue. The whole look, including imagery in the foreground and background alongside the futuristic makeup and splashes of pink and pastel tones related to my theme so well and would accent the hair, makeup and theme I wanted to encapsulate. I looked into the makeup and photography used on the other photographs featured inside the magazine and came up with the idea to lay my model down in a bed of confetti. This would fit the wedding theme and embody the overall style depicted in the images featured in the Fall 2014 issue of LOVE magazine. 

I made the confetti by punching heart shaped holes into various pastel coloured sheets of crepe paper. This home made confetti would then be used to decorate the back ground, reminiscent of the images above.



References
Mood board  1
Image 1- Farm8.staticflickr.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7434/12515513323_4dff93debf_o.jpg [Accessed 2 Feb. 2015].
Image 2- I.dailymail.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2013/07/24/article-0-1AF85748000005DC-950_634x826.jpg [Accessed 2 Feb. 2015].
Image 3- Sophmoet.files.wordpress.com, (2015). [online] Available at: https://sophmoet.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/buela-the-doll-by-mert-marcus-love-4-fall-winter-2010.jpg [Accessed 2 Feb. 2015].
Image 4 -Wearesodroee.files.wordpress.com, (2015). [online] Available at: https://wearesodroee.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/cara-delevingne-by-liz-collins-for-love-magazine-fall-winter-2014-2015.jpg [Accessed 2 Feb. 2015].

Mood board 2
Image 1-Astairwaytofashion.files.wordpress.com, (2015). [online] Available at: https://astairwaytofashion.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/2106.jpg [Accessed 2 Feb. 2015].
Image 2- Encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com, (2015). [online] Available at: https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRReLEnEqIK2OKD4n4y39E2FXrfll7t3QQBiPkL3iLV6zVCyt1H [Accessed 2 Feb. 2015].
Image 3- Astairwaytofashion.files.wordpress.com, (2015). [online] Available at: https://astairwaytofashion.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/743.jpg [Accessed 2 Feb. 2015].
Image 4- Model-scraps.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://model-scraps.com/wp-content/uploads/cara-delevingne-love-magazine-fall-winter-2014-4.jpg [Accessed 2 Feb. 2015].

Development of Final Design- Ideas and Inspirations

The basis of my final design for the shoot was inspired by Jeremy Scott’s SS15 designs for Moschino. When given the brief, this was the look for SS5 that sprang to mind first, as it was one of my favourite looks. I just loved how vibrant, playful and PINK it was, so I knew I wanted to incorporate elements from Moschino SS15 into my final look. Lucia Pieroni mixed three Mac Lipmix shades together to create the perfect Barbie pink pout. They included yellow, magenta and white. I decided to stick with similar themes, as I wanted the entire look to come together as a whole, so I kept in mind the use of pink and pastel tones and a fun theme bought to the catwalk at SS15 Fashion Week.

This could be seen extensively in Betsey Johnson’s catwalk show called ‘Prenup’, which featured models in lacy lingerie and wedding dresses in pastel tones paired with veils and majorly blingy jewellery. This was also another of my favourite catwalk shows. I teamed the two ideas together and came up with the overall idea of the front cover of my magazine featuring a doll like model, representative of Moschino SS15 with a wedding theme, representative of Betsey Johnson’s ‘Prenup’.

Now that I had a theme in mind, I began researching hair and makeup looks from SS15 that would complement the theme and overall look. I took some makeup inspiration from Moschino and knew I was going to incorporate a Barbie pink lip into the look as it really did epitomise the doll look. I also thought the fresh and clean base makeup with a touch of blush on the cheeks worked well with keeping the look vibrant and youthful.

When looking for catwalk shows that featured pastel tones and girly themes, I came across Ryan Lo’s mermaid inspired catwalk show for SS15 here the models wore an array of pastel coloured garments alongside bold pink jewellery, soft crimped hair and glitter eye makeup. I though the soft crimp going though the tousled hair alongside the lightly glittered eyelids was beautifully done and complimented the mermaid theme so well as the myth sees them as genteel and feminine creatures. So I decide to apply these feminine hair and makeup looks into my final design as the overall look would be very feminine and fun. However, I wanted my final deign to have a slightly edgier feel with a sense of confidence that was evoked in Betsey Johnson’s ‘Prenup’ and Jeremy Scott’s Barbie look for Moschino. I decided to look further into the makeup used for Ashish, as it was another of my favourite looks from SS15 that featured glitter, colour and bold attitudes.  When researching the makeup for Ashish, I discovered that the brands makeup director, Sharon Dowsett’s secret to making the glitter eye makeup so stand out and kitsch was “no liner and no lashes”.  I got the idea to then incorporate Sharon Dowsett’s makeup deign with Mathias Van Hooff’s makeup design for Ryan Lo. They both applied glitter over the entire lid and up to the brow bone. Model’s for Ryan Lo wore liner and lashes alongside colourful pastel glitters while model’s for Ashish featured bronze and copper glitter and gems/ sequins on the eyes with no liner or lashes. I took the use of pastel coloured glitters from Ryan Lo and the use of gems and sequins alongside no liner or lashes from Ashish.

The hair and makeup deign was complete. Now to put all the ideas together on a face chart.

Base: Clean, fresh, minimal base with a soft blush tone inspired by Lucia Pieroni’s makeup for Moschino SS15

Eyes: Glitter and sequin chaos with no liner or lashes inspired by Sharon Dosett’s makeup for AshishSS15. Pastel glitter tones inspired by Mathias Van Hooff’s makeup for Ryan Lo SS15

Lips: Barbie pink! Inspired by Moschino SS15

Hair: Soft crimps created by plaiting and heating the hair, inspired by Chi Wong’s hair created for Ryan Lo SS15. Fun and flirty short hair inspired by Rafe Hardy’s hair design for Betsey Johnson’s ‘Prenup’ SS15 which was inspired by Marilyn Monroe.  


References

Moscino mood board
Image 1- Aroshaloveslouboutins.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://aroshaloveslouboutins.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/Baby-doll-1-1.jpg [Accessed 1 Feb. 2015].
Image 2- I2.wp.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://i2.wp.com/www.stylesnooperdan.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/055_AG10003.jpg?resize=683%2C1024 [Accessed 1 Feb. 2015].
Image 3- Harrods.scene7.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://harrods.scene7.com/is/image/Harrods/Trend_Moschino_2409?$SI_trend_portrait$ [Accessed 1 Feb. 2015].
Image 4- Marieclaire.media.ipcdigital.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://marieclaire.media.ipcdigital.co.uk/11116/000082ad4/6b71_orh1000w646/Moschino-LLL.jpg [Accessed 1 Feb. 2015].
Image 5- Frillseeker.ie, (2015). [online] Available at: http://frillseeker.ie/sites/default/files/styles/homepage_slider/public/10683987_818528754835022_1956727531_n.jpg?itok=_oBS7DOi [Accessed 1 Feb. 2015].

Betsey Johnson mood board
Image 1- I.dailymail.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/09/11/article-0-21412E4D00000578-432_306x617.jpg [Accessed 1 Feb. 2015].
Image 2- 1.bp.blogspot.com, (2015). [online] Available at: https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRVgGbsQVUsuqZouG8-cnjmlTVuU-ZkxsUyM2_4w31gFBkIcRj_y698O34Tqgl5vXEr-zGxWoB-dRXuVMCP9f8j1v9Jwn0IVEHMWrfiM52_CB8AMOJq7kVPySxbC0R7fakDQ6P4tNtBr_J/s1600/SS15DLR_Betsey_418.jpg [Accessed 1 Feb. 2015].
Image 3- Editorial.just-brands.net, (2015). [online] Available at: http://editorial.just-brands.net/file/2014/09/LKV3949.jpg [Accessed 1 Feb. 2015].
Image 4- Allaboutthetea.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://allaboutthetea.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/dish-091014-betsey-johnson-promote.jpg [Accessed 1 Feb. 2015].
Image 5- Cdn3-thefashionspot.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://cdn3-www.thefashionspot.com/assets/uploads/gallery/betsey-johnson-spring-2015/betsey-johnson-ss15-1341.jpg [Accessed 1 Feb. 2015].

Ryan Lo mood board
Image 1- 36.media.tumblr.com, (2015). [online] Available at: https://36.media.tumblr.com/900adcab62de58d8017e309f262a578b/tumblr_nca1gscJO71qbxcyqo1_500.jpg [Accessed 1 Feb. 2015].
Image 2- Noctismag.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://noctismag.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/ryanlo_LFW_Noctis-01.jpg [Accessed 1 Feb. 2015].
Image 3- Thebeautyrebel.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://thebeautyrebel.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/Ryan-Lo-SS15-Daniel-Sims-British-Fashion-Council-5.jpg [Accessed 1 Feb. 2015].
Image 4- Showstudio.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://showstudio.com/img/instagrams/99401-99600/99478_960n.jpg?1410868970 [Accessed 1 Feb. 2015].
Image 5- I58.tinypic.com, (2015). Image - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting. [online] Available at: http://i58.tinypic.com/2pze8b9.jpg [Accessed 1 Feb. 2015].
Image 6- Showstudio.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://showstudio.com/img/instagrams/99401-99600/99473_960n.jpg?1410868744 [Accessed 1 Feb. 2015].
Image 7- Lh5.googleusercontent.com, (2015). [online] Available at: https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj95DfI07X0U5Wh-aqDRGg4iu76gcEIusgplXna2mxvca-e_N73CIUeP1tJKW3SkWYX-8f0br5UmWVEByS0JFExopT_7XA70PnMz7iQ929Zx9FRzyOJJS24n8GnbFt5xRq9yKyXGNZylxw/s640/blogger-image--1669056303.jpg [Accessed 1 Feb. 2015].

Ashish mood board
Image 1- Cosmouk.cdnds.net, (2015). [online] Available at: http://cosmouk.cdnds.net/14/38/768x1157/nrm_1410947549-ashish_clp_rs15_5494.jpg [Accessed 1 Feb. 2015].
Image 2- Cosmouk.cdnds.net, (2015). [online] Available at: http://cosmouk.cdnds.net/14/38/768x512/nrm_1410947589-455543046.jpg [Accessed 1 Feb. 2015].
Image 3- Freakdeluxe.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://freakdeluxe.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/ASHISH-SS15-LFW-1024x558.jpg [Accessed 1 Feb. 2015].

Catwalk Workshop Incorporating sequins/feathers/glitter...

Today’s lesson focused on creating a high fashion makeup look, furthering my attention on creating artistic lines, using bold colours and incorporating different textures, using materials such as glitters, sequins and feathers.

I began by cleansing and moisturising the skin, and then using shades C.1, 14 and 124, I mixed together a base colour to match the skin perfectly. I applied it with a foundation brush then buffed the product in and removed any excess product with a buffing brush- doing this created a flawless yet natural looking base and the creamy texture of the product would allow grease paints to glide onto the skin and blend with ease as I did not set the base with powder.

I then used a mixture of Makeup Forever grease paints to sweep on different lines. I began by sweeping a bright coral shade along the side of the nose and swept the line upwards and above the eye brow then created a soft zigzag line to finish. Using another brush, I applied a hot pink shade as if to contour her cheek bone in one sweeping motion, then used my ring finger to blend out the lower edge of the line. This began to add dimension to the makeup. To add more definition an add a 3D effect, I then used an intense turquoise shade to cut through the pink contour line, which created the 3D illusion when paired on top of the shaded hot pink line. I then followed the shape of her jaw beneath the contour line using a bright yellow shade. I kept this line softer by using a fluffier brush to apply it. The final colour I applied was a royal blue shade to her lips, in which I exaggerated her cupids bow slightly with a point for a more futuristic look.

To add texture, I applied glitter in a triangular shape directly beneath my models eyes. I used hydro spirit gum, which I patted onto the skin using ring finger. Once the glue was tacky, I used the same finger to press purple glitter onto the skin then. I then applied mascara to my models top and bottom lashes to complete the eye area.

To finish the look and add another texture, I dotted liquid latex over my models face then pressed small sequins into the latex. This is a quick and safe way to stick items onto the skin (as long as the model is not allergic to latex).

Problem solving

When I began removing the makeup, I noticed that the purple glitter had stained my models skin bright pink, showing no signs of coming off. As it had stained on such a delicate area of the skin, I did not want to rub it too much, so I sought the help of my tutor Branka, who advised me to use grape seed oil on the affected area. I soaked a cotton wool pad in the oil and held it under my models eyes for a while then gently massaged it in to help loosen the pink colour that had stained. After a while, the stain had disappeared. This has taught me to avoid using purple glitter on the face but also prepared me for his kind of situation. I will definitely have grape seed oil in my kit in case of such circumstances in the future!

Overall, although I am really pleased with my base colour mix and application and the neatness of the lines I created on the face, I struggled initially to just let go and apply random lines! For years I have applied makeup to be perfecting and precise/symmetrical so applying these free hand techniques using different colours and lines did not com natural to me. However, I am pleased to have practised this makeup and feel that the next time I am asked to do so, I will feel a bit more confident. 

Maintaining a Hairstyle

Today’s lesson focused on creating a hairstyle fit to last. When creating a hairstyle for t.v and film, an occasion or performance, it is imperative to ensure the hair is secured with the intention for it to stay in place in different weather conditions or movements.

On set: hair and makeup is usually the first port of call and will be done before and during rehearsals. Actors may also have to have their makeup done early in the day but will not be required on camera for hours so it is important to secure and maintain the hair from dropping, being moved/ played with by the actor and weather conditions. Some hairstyles, such a ringlets, can be maintained before an actor is required on camera but attaching a hair net, to hold the curls in place and stop them from dropping. Rollers and hot sticks can be left in while an actor is rehearsing.  It is also imperative to be aware of an actor’s movements on camera and on set for continuity reasons, as different scenes get filmed in different sequences therefore; keeping the hair looking the same for different scenes requires script breakdowns and constantly checking the hair style during takes.

Occasion and performance: most hair styles created for an occasion, such as a wedding or a performance, such as a theatre production, require the hair to be secured to a very high standard, as there are not many (if any) chances to rectify the hair. The hair must be secured to withstand a high level of movement, perspiration and sometimes different weather conditions and costume changes. All of these elements must be taken into account before and during the creation of a hairstyle. Will the hair be able to withstand the high level of movement? Will the costume change affect the hairstyle?

Alongside fellow student, Charlotte Forrester, I created an intricate hairstyle on Molly, who has very long hair that struggles to hold into a style. Keeping this in mind, as well as making the hair secure, we back brushed the front sections of hair and incorporated crepe hair into the two front sections to create victory rolls. We then created a French pleat at the back of the head, incorporating more crepe hair and securing with grips. We cross gripped a many sections as possible for ample hold and applied hair spray to any stray hairs. Once we felt confident in the hairstyle, we went outside to see how the style held up in the windy weather, as well as Molly’s different movements.

Things to look out for

• Her coat hitting the hair along her neck
• Her own movements- touching her head/hair
• Wind/rain/sun (perspiration)
• Hair dropping overtime

Things to take with me

• Spare hair grips
• Pin tail comb
• Hair spray
• Hair net
• My own coat!

During the 20 minute hair test, we got out model, Molly to put on her coat, take a stroll outside and sit and have a coffee and a chat (all normal things that would happen on set) and took note of how these different things affected the hair. We noticed that the soft breeze managed to blow the stray airs by her ears out of place, which Molly then subconsciously played with while having a coffee. We noticed this and combed the stray hairs back in place and set with more hair spray. When she removed her coat, we also noticed that the back of the hair was not as it was before and rectified this with the comb and hair spray.

Overall, I think this was a valuable lesson in maintaining a hair style and really opened my eyes to how much thought goes into creating, setting and maintaining a hairstyle. I now feel more prepared for what is expected from me on set and what to look out for. 

Creating free hand face lace and incorporating into a makeup look

Today’s lesson focused on creating a high fashion makeup using free hand liner techniques and incorporating texture with the use of cotton.

In order to make this look high fashion and relevant to SS15 trends, I blocked out the eyebrows to enhance the shape and lines I would create over the face later. I blocked out the eyebrows by brushing spirit gum through my models eyebrows in a backwards and forwards direction to coat all the hairs. I then brushed the eyebrow hairs upwards to create a flat space. I used my spatula to really flatten the hairs. I then used MME and a cotton bud to remove any excess spirit gum from the skin then set the spirit gum loose powder.

To conceal the eyebrows, I swept D32 over the eyebrows, as this particular shade adds warmth and flesh tones into the darkened area then set this with more loose powder. To further conceal, I stippled Kryolan dermacolor concealers in shades D3 and D4 to match my models natural skin tone. I then set this layer of makeup on place with more loose powder then finally swept the eye shadow shade ‘Shell’ over the brows for an extra touch of colour to conceal the eyebrows.

Next, I moved on to create a flawless full coverage base, incorporating highlighting and contouring techniques. I began by applying Mac Studio Fix Foundation with a foundation brush and used a smaller, fluffier brush to buff in and wipe away and extra product, for an even base. I then applied a contour shade (shade 117 from my Morag Ross Le Maquillage palette) to her cheekbones, jaw line, temples and top of her forehead and blended thoroughly, using my foundation brush. I mixed shade 070 from my Kryolan Supracolor palette to the foundation I had already applied to create a highlight shade. I applied this shade to the centre of her forehead, down the bridge of her nose, along the top of her cheek bones and on her chin and along her cupids bow. I opted to only apply a highlighting shade to my models nose as it is very small and it did not require contouring for the appearance of a smaller nose. I blended this shade in using a clean brush to keep the highlighting tone looking bright. I applied a touch more concealer uder her eyes, as they did not require a heavy camouflage concealer as the full coverage foundation concealed any dark circles enough. I then set the base makeup with a dusting of translucent powder.

I then began working on creating a decorative pattern around her eye and over the blocked out brows. I began by adding water to a black aquacolor until I achieved the correct consistency, which had to be thick enough to create a bold black line but runny enough for me to be able to sweep a neat line over her face. I practised creating the correct consistency and sweeping neat lines on the back of my hand until I felt brave enough to apply the product to the skin.

Once I had mapped out the line I was going to create in my head, I used my little finger to help balance my hand then swept the linear pattern around her eyes.

Once the pattern as complete, I incorporated another pattern by using cotton, which I placed onto the face using liquid latex. I created circular shapes to complement the curves I had previously brushed on.

Overall, I am pleased with the finished result. I think my lines are very neat and precise, which is a bit of a shock seeing as this was my first time creating lines like this on the face! I am also pleased with my base application and techniques used to block out the eyebrows as they are both very neat and I managed to apply both a lot quicker than I would have done a few months ago! However, if I were to re-do this makeup, I would apply less liquid latex, as it can be seen in the picture. It was very fiddly, so I would also use tweezers to help me place the cotton onto the latex. I would also conceal the brows a little more especially in the middle, by using a touch more D32 and skin matching camouflage concealrs. 

Incorporating Cage Work into Hair Designs

Today’s lesson focused on creating and incorporating a cage work into a hairstyle. The task was to create and incorporate a bow into the hair, using cardboard and hair wefts.

I began by creating a template of a bow, which I would then fold and staple together to form the correct 3D shape. Once the bow shape was sturdy and secured, I took lengths of crepe hair and wrapped it around at the centre of the bow. I began wrapping the hair around this section as the stitches in the weft would later be concealed by hair I would wrap around the centre to resemble the bows knot.

Once I had wrapped the entire length of the hair weft around one side of the cardboard bow, I secured it with a grip, ensuring the grip was concealed under the hair. I then repeated the same technique on the other side of the cardboard bow.

I then used some of the loose ends from the hair weft to tuck into the gaps in the card board which would resemble the loop of the bow. This helped conceal any of the cardboard as well as helping pack out the bow for a more realistic rounded shape. I wrapped the remaining loose ends around the centre of the bow cage to finalise the appearance of a bow.

I then attached it to my models hair using grips.

Overall, I found creating the correct bow shape cage a lot easier than wrapping the hair weft around it neatly. However, I found it much easier to do once I asked a classmate to hold the cage while I wrapped the weft around it. I also found that back combing the under layer of the weft helped keep a lot of the hair in place as well as helping form a more rounded shape.

I practised creating the same bow shape incorporating a cage again at home with the intention to create a neater bow and overall hairstyle. 

I then created another piece of cage work to incorporate into an overall hairstyle. I got the idea to create flower petals from wire, which I would then cover in hair wefts. I began by drawing various petal shapes onto a sheet of wire and carefully cut them out. I then took sections of hair wefts and wrapped it around the wire, securing in place with hair grips. I then planned to incorporate the petals into a bun style. However, wrapping the hair wefts around the wire mesh was not a straightforward as expected! I found it very fiddly and found that the wire mesh kept bending as I wrapped the hair around. Due to this, I found I was running out of time so I decided to begin dressing the hair into a bun style rather than spend the entire lesson fiddling with the wire mesh.

I created the sweeping bun shape by brushing the hair through repeatedly to create a sleek, neat finish and tied into a pony tail. I then created a loop with the pony tail and wrapped the end around the top of the pony tail to create a modern and stylish bun while concealing the hair band. As I was running out of time, I opted to secure the two pieces of cage work I had created into the bun, which I think created quite a futuristic look.

Overall, I am disappointed that I was unable to create the style which I had envisioned and planned for, but I am proud of myself for giving it a go and dressing out a different style under time pressure and m plans going awry! I think I would have been more successful if I had used a sturdier wire to make my cage work petals and will definitely keep this in mind for next time.