Monday, 8 December 2014

Zac Possen SS/15

Makeup: Kabuki for M.A.C.
Hair: Odile Gilbert for Kerastase

Products used (taken from various research sources)

SKIN
·         Witch-hazel
·         Primer
·         Mac Face and Body Foundation/ Mac matte Mastermatch Foundation
·         Mac Shine Mixing Medium
·         Mac Studio Finish Concealer

EYES
  •       Mac Casual Colour in Keep it Loose
  •        Mac PRO Gloss Texture
  •         Mac Haute & Naughty Mascara- Black

LIPS

·         Mac Lip Pencil in Cherry
·         Mac Lip Mix in Red
HAIR

·         Kerastase Forme Fatale
·         Small tooth comb
·         Kerastase Lift Vertige
·         Blow dryer
·         Keratase Keratine Thermique
·         Keratase Laque Noir


My View: I chose to recreate this look because it combines a classic red lip makeup look with a twist. The twist being the matte lips juxtaposing against the glossy eye. Usually, a typical makeup look will depict a matte eye alongside a glossy lip so this particular look intrigued me. I love the clean cutting edge effect having a glossy eye against a clean matte lip has. The hair complements the makeup beautifully by incorporating a glamorous style to match the glamorous red lip, while being glossy reminiscent of the eye makeup. These elements used together fell in with the simplistic yet powerful colours and sharp tailoring of Zac Posen’s designs. It was a beautiful and coherent overall look. Each element harmonized with the other and one did not stand out more than another for a flawless finish.

My research: While researching Zac Possen’s SS/15 look, I discovered the overall theme was simplicity. This reflected in the makeup. He said “Simplicity is its strength, which fits with the mood of this season’s collection.” (Makeupforlife.net, 2014) To achieve the clean, fresh base, Kabuki began by using Witch-hazel to really clean the skin to enhance the foundation application. For a natural skin base, he applied two different foundations- one matte and one dewy to avoid certain areas of the face being highlighted by shine and light. He used Face and Body, using a slightly darker tone on the outer parts of the face to depict a natural skin tone, creating a very natural barely-there skin base and applied Mac matte Matchmaster in the centre of the face. He then concealed any areas that needed more coverage and used peach tones under the eyes to counteract any blue tones. I think Mac shine mixing medium was used to give the cheekbones a dewy highlight. If I didn't have access to this product, I would opt for a clear gloss or Vaseline for shine. It doesn’t seem that powder was used to set the makeup; I would assume that this was to keep the skin looking dewy, sporty and sheer. I could not find any information on what products were used on the cheeks but I assume from assessing pictures of the makeup that a sheer application of a pink blush with peachy tones was used, such as Mac Something Special Cremeblend blush to complement the natural tones in the cheeks as well as the orangey tones on the eye and keep the makeup looking sheer, unlike using a powder blush that would have made the cheek area matte. I have also assumed that the cheekbones were contoured to elevate this structured look and suit the tailoring in the attire. I would use shade 117 from my Morag Ross Le Maquillage palette to contour. The blush tone is not very obvious although there is a slight hit of colour. I think I would apply a sheer lipstick over a creme blush for subtlety. 

 Kabuki applied a sheer layer of Keep it Loose on the eyelid, using his finger to sculpt the lid. I think a shine mixing medium was also swept across the lid to coincide with the wet look hair and dewy cheeks. The top and bottom lashes were then coated with mascara using a brush instead of a wand.


Kabuki then lined and filled the lips in with Cherry lip pencil and filled with Red Lip Mix for a semi-matte finish to contrast with the shiny eye.

Zac Posen Hair and Makeup SS/15

The two video's below detail what went on backstage at Zac Posen SS/15. It includes the influences behind the hair and makeup designs. 





References

Info- style.com, (2014). Zac Posen Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show: Runway Review - Style.com. [online] Available at: http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/zac-posen [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].
-Makeupforlife.net, (2014). Runway Beauty: Glowy Skin with Red Lip at Zac Posen Spring/Summer 2015 - Makeup For Life. [online] Available at: http://makeupforlife.net/2014/09/glowy-skin-red-lip-zac-posen-spring-summer-2015.html [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].
WWD, (2014). Color Coordinating Backstage at Zac Posen. [online] Available at: http://www.wwd.com/runway/spring-ready-to-wear-2015/backstage-beauty/zac-posen [Accessed 4 Dec. 2014].

Pic 1- Media.style.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://media.style.com/image/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/new-york/zac-posen/collection/554/830/KIM_2577.jpg [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].
Pic 2-  Makeupforlife.net, (2014). [online] Available at: http://makeupforlife.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/zac-posen-spring-2015-runway-beauty.jpg [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].
Pic 3- Makeupforlife.net, (2014). [online] Available at: http://makeupforlife.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wet-hair-zac-posen-spring-2015.jpg [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].

Video 1-  Anon, (2014). [image] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxSWy6AVyvU [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].
Video 2- Anon, (2014). [image] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86aYeKzDg-s [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].

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