Makeup Assessment- Zac Possen SS/15

Makeup Assessment Zac Possen SS/15

So came the day of the assessment. Once I had set up my work station, ensuring all products were available, I covered my model with a gown and arranged the height of her chair. I washed my hands. While cleansing my model's skin, I assessed her colouring and any skin conditions or problem areas. I did notice that she had quite a bad cold, so the area around her nose was quite red and dry. I then applied an ample amount of hydrating moisturiser to keep the skin looking dewy and to aid the dry areas caused by her cold and by harsh winter weather. Once the moisturuser had sunk in a little, I swept Strobe Cream over her entire face to add luminosity to the skin and aid with the dewy look I was recreating.

I then applied Mac Face and Body in C3 along her jaw line to check if it matched her natural colouring and then used a foundation brush to sweep and pat the foundation into the outer areas of her face. I applied the same technique used by Kabuki for Zac Possen and applied a matte foundation to the centre of the face (T-zone) to avoid highlighting the centre of the face, as the main dewy highlight was going to be focused on the cheek bones and outer areas of the face. Once I was happy with the application I used D32 ad Kryolan camouflage concealer to perfect the skin and hide and red or dark areas. I did not powder the skin to keep it looking dewy, however I really buffed the product into the skin. The Strobe Cream also helped the makeup last longer. Not using powder also allowed me to to keep adjusting the makeup around my models nose if she needed to used a tissue. (If I were to use powder in this situation, I would apply it to her nose last so I could keep touching it up.) I then used Morag Ross shade 117 from my Le Maquillage palette to sculpt my models cheek bones. I did not bring the contour out too far, as I think it appeared quite sharp at the starting point and was really blended out in the reference pictures I had studied.

I then groomed my models eye brows and applied a clear gel to set them in place for this fresh clean look. I applied the gel with a flat brush to get a god amount of product on the brow and then combed through.

Next, I mised a blush shade from my Kryolan Rouge palette and dabbed it onto her cheeks using my ring finger for a very subtle glow and really worked it into the skin. I moved onto the lip before adding any dewy highlights to the eyes and cheeks to keep the makeup looking as fresh as I could and to keep my model comfortable, as the gloss on the lid could be uncomfortable for some. I began by lining and filling the lip with Mac Cherry lip pencil, ensuring to hold my arm steady, then I filled the entire lip with Mac's Lady Danger. I chose this colour over a classic red as I noticed the orange undertones in the lip colour used by Kabuki. This colour is beautifully pigmented and just matte enough to be a stand out feature of the makeup. I also think it reflected the Zac Posen look well.

After I was happy with the lip after assessing the makeup from different angles (standing back) I began to apply the final dewy touches to the skin and eyes. I dabbed Vaseline along my models cheekbones and over the blush colour I had applied and at the very top of her forehead for a balanced dewy glow. I then began to mix the eye makeup shades together.

I mixed the products for the eye on the back of my hand using my ring ringer to warm up the product to make it easier to apply to the lid and then mixed a clear gloss in with it before dabbing it over the lid using the same finger. I brushed a small amount of product underneath the eye too, for a more uniform look.

The final step was to coat the top and bottom lashes with mascara. The look was complete.

Problem Solving
As I was aware, the products I applied to make the skin appear dewy would eventually eat away at the makeup, so I opted to apply these products last. To rectify this, in future, I would use a more professional product, such as Mac Shine, although I am pleased with the different dewy glows I managed to create using Vaseline and gloss.

Overall, I am really proud of the makeup look I created today and the techniques I used. I really studied the makeup from Zac Posen and did a lot of research to back up my use of certain products and application techniques. I really enjoyed recreating this makeup look by Kabuki for Zac Possen. It has furthered my desire to work in the fashion industry.