Research for Technical Assessment

Research for Technical Assessment

For the technical assessment, I must recreate a look from the listed catwalk shows including hair and makeup. I have researched all four shows to help me decide which look to recreate. My decision will be based on what hair and makeup I think will suit my model best, what products I have available to me and what particular hair and makeup look I think will show off my skills.


Tanya Taylor

Tanya Taylor SS/15 Mood board

Research: The look for Tanya Taylor SS/15 kept within Taylor's usual clean, effortless style but added a bold twist with a bright orange lip using Nars Satin Lip Pencil. Makeup artist Uzo used tinted moisturizer on the skin to add luminosity for a fresh clean look. Light shimmer on the eye and a bold tangy lip kept the overall makeup looking zingy and fresh- perfect for Spring and Summer. When assessing pictures from the show, I noticed that the eyebrows are well groomed into place but are not filled in- this is definitely a big factor in keeping the face looking clean and dewy and allows the lip to pop and accentuate the bold oranges and blues, which are complementary colours. Tanya said of this look "It feels like a very wearable yet energetic look". (Cleminson, 2014)

To complement this polished look with an edgy twist, hairstylist Allan Wood created a dynamic look incorporating sleek backed hair which transformed into a loose twist- the sleek part of the hair reflecting the clean makeup and the twist reflecting the unexpected in the bold lip. This style also added feel to the well tailored yet feminine attire. 

I am definitely thinking about re-creating this look because it is so clean and beautiful. For a sheer clean base I would use Mac Face and Body foundation and use my Mac Pro palette to conceal any areas that needed it. I would use a clear gel on the eyebrows to slick them into place to keep the entire look clean and dewy. For the eyes, I think I would dab the product on the eyelid with my finger to add to the natural look. I think the heat from my hands would warm the product up nicely, allowing it to sweep over the eye with ease for an effortless look and apply mascara to the top lashes only to keep the eye wide and bright. My main concentration would definitely be on the lip, which I would pencil line and then pencil in the entire lip to add depth to the overall colour. 

Zac Posen

Zac Posen SS/15 Mood board

Research: A similar look was seen at Zac Posen SS/15. Dewy skin alongside a strong bold lip was the standout look. Key makeup artist Kabuki kept the look simplistic. It shows a reverse in gloss an eye textures- the eyelid being shiny and the lip being matte. This added to the sleek look of the entire collection. Key products that were used include Mac Lipmix in Red and Mac Face and Boy foundation that aided this dewy simplistic look. Kabuki used Face and Body on the outer part of the face and  Mac matte Mastermatch foundation in the centre to keep only the outer arts of the face highlighted. Hair stylist Odile Gilbert complemented the clean cut tailoring and colours alongside the bold red lip and dewy eye by keeping the hair sleek and shiny. While watching a video about the backstage process, Odile is seen explaining the overall look for hair and explains she wanted it to look sleepk at the front and like the model had just emerged from water at the back. She used her fingers to break up the hair at the back to keep it looking softer and more natural. She used Kerastase Lift Vertige to lift the roots at the front of the hair and applied Kerastase Forme Fatale over the hair to create the wet look. She blow dried the product in at the front to help sculpt and set the shapes created. 

This is my favourite look out of the four because I love the contrast in the lip and eye textures and think the texture and stylized waves in the hair really give the Zac Posen models the edge that the clothes also give. Keeping the hair and makeup sleek added class and power to the overall look. This, alongside Posen's regimental use of colour and shape made for a very strong feminine look. If I were to recreate this makeup, I would have to think about what products would work best on the eye to make it shiny. Vaseline could be used or a high shine mixing medium, such as Shine by Mac. I would gently dab it over the eye with my fingers to avoid creating any brush marks or brush hairs being seen on the dewy lid. The same product could also be used on the cheekbones to add a dewy highlight. Like Tanya Taylor, I would keep the brows clean and well groomed with gel but avoid filling them in to allow the lip to do the talking! I would line and fill the entire lip with Mac Cherry lip pencil and coat the lip with a matte lip shade such as Lady Danger, as it has slight orange tones.  I would try to apply the same methods as Odile Gilbert did to create the hair and use gel to help mold the hair into a shape and heat it to set. I would use my fingers to apply the product through the lengths of the hair and create a contrasting natural flow. 

Burberry Prorsum

Burberry Prorsum AW/14 Mood board

Research: The look for Burberry's A/W 14 look was inspired by the girls of the Bloomsbury Group who were an association of artists, writers and intellectuals from the early 20th century. The makeup featured healthy glowing complexions and soft plum eyes and natural lips. Key makeup artist Wendy Rowe used the darkest shade from Burberry's Complete Eye Palette in Nude Blush on the eye along with the Khol pencil in Stone on the waterline to open up the eye. Burberry's Fresh Glow foundation was used on the skin to create the signature Burberry Glow while protecting the skin from the elements of winter. Hair stylist Neil Moodie created natural waves and added shine and texture for a 'day two hair' look, which I think adds to the Autumn Winter feel, like hair being blown in the cold wind, giving a natural texture.

As I don't have any of the product used above, if I were to re-create this look, I would have to really assess the colours used. Similar products I have include Calvin Klein Sheer Creme eyeshadow in Retro Bronze and my Ben Nye Glam Shadow palette which includes plum tones such as Eggplant and Brownberry. All these shades have subtle brown and plum shades. I think the brown tones add depth to the plum shade and keep it looking to summery and light. As the eyes are shiny, I would apply Vaseline using my finger to the lid to create this look. I would also use my nude eye pencil by NYX to line the waterline and open up the eye. I would keep the lips natural, dabbing only a small amount of product on the lips with my finger to add slight shine and colour to complement the shades used on the eyes and cheeks using pinks with purple undertones, such as Blush Baby by Mac. Once again, this is a very clean look so the eyebrows are kept well groomed with little product. I would simply fill any gaps in the brows using a powder to keep the look soft and natural. I also think I could use a foundation with a slightly fuller coverage and apply powder to stop the skin looking too dewy and summery, like the looks before. I would love to use Burberry's Fresh Glow foundation but would probably use Revoln's Photoready foundation as it has light reflecting particles to make the skin glow. 

Here is a video backstage at Burberry AW/14: 

Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs AW/14 Mood board

Research: The most outrageous look of all four choices is from Marc Jacobs AW/14 catwalk show. All the models wore wigs coloured by Victoria Hunter and styles by Guido Palau in natural mink browns and soft lilac tones that matched the attire perfectly. It's straight cut edges juxtaposed with the flowing light materials and gave the look an edge. Francois Nars created flawless skin and contoured socket lines alongside light grey eyelids and nude lips. This really complemented the dynamic hair and teamed with bleached out eyebrows, the look emitted a futuristic look. The high contour on the eye created a faux socket line while the light grey shadow opened up the eye area. Together, these elements made the eye area look quite alien- like, as the larger emphasis was kept at the top of the face. Sharp cheek contours and nude lips also helped slim the face, giving an alien- like shape. Francois Nars said of this look: “The makeup look was really inspired by the collection, which is very “matte.” There’s nothing too silky and I wanted that to translate to the makeup. The models look like mannequins. The eyelid is a pale neutral grey and we made it look bigger by foregoing mascara. The lips have a touch of frosted metallic silver. We used a lot of powder for a matte, porcelain finish.” (Blushing Noir, 2014)

This would be the most transforming look to recreate, however I don't think I would be able to create such a desired effect as I could not bleach out my models eyebrows. I am really impressed how each single element of the hair and makeup adds dimensions to this futuristic mannequin look. Without the straight cut hair, the makeup would not have as much edge and vice versa. If I were to recreate this look, I would make good use of my Ben Nye Glam Shadow palette and use the taupe and brown tones to create the socket line and mix Cobblestone and Shell together to fill the eyelid. I would use the same palette to contour the cheek area. I would opt for a powder product to contour with as the makeup is very matte. I would apply loose powder and press and roll the product into the skin to really set the base and really matte out the skin. I think the matte skin complements the dusty shades used for the hair perfectly. In an attempt to block out the brows, I would use my Kryolan Derma palette to match a suitable skin tone and brush into the brows, as it is a highly pigmented product. 

References

Tanya Taylor

Taylor 1- I0.wp.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://i0.wp.com/www.fashionisingpictures.net/runway/tanya-taylor-beauty-spring-summer-2015-nyfw3.jpg [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].

Taylor eye and lip- I0.wp.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://i0.wp.com/www.fashionisingpictures.net/runway/tanya-taylor-beauty-spring-summer-2015-nyfw3.jpg [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].

Taylor 4- Strandednyc.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://www.strandednyc.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_3695-682x1024.jpg [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].

Taylor 5- Anon, (2014). [image] Available at: http://ttps://d36di5nvqr47bo.cloudfront.net/photos/9828/39480/tanya-taylor-ready-to-wear-spring-summer-2015-new-york-9828-looks-20140905-467247/Tanya-Taylor-New-York-RTW-SS15-0077-1409919708-thumb.jpg [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].

Taylor makeup- Najlakaddour.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://najlakaddour.com/wp-content/uploads/NARS_Tanya-Taylor_SS15_Facechart-2.jpg [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].

Taylor 7- S1.r29static.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://s1.r29static.com/bin/entry/c2c/x,80/1281209/tat-ss15-021-2-copy-2.jpg [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].
Info- Cleminson, R. (2014). #StrandedBackstage | Tanya Taylor SS15: Our Search for the Ultimate Cool Girl. [online] Stranded NYC. Available at: http://www.strandednyc.com/tanya-taylor-ss15-nyfw-bumble-nars/ [Accessed 4 Dec. 2014].

Zac Posen 

Posen 1- I0.wp.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://i0.wp.com/www.fashionisingpictures.net/runway/zac-posen-beauty-spring-summer-2015-nyfw10.jpg [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].

Posen eye and lip- I0.wp.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://i0.wp.com/www.fashionisingpictures.net/runway/zac-posen-autumn-fall-winter-2014-nyfw19.jpg?w=140&crop=0,0,160px,137px&resize=140,120 [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].

Posen 4- I0.wp.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://i0.wp.com/www.fashionisingpictures.net/runway/zac-posen-beauty-spring-summer-2015-nyfw13.jpg [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].

Posen 5- Elle.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://www.elle.com/cm/elle/images/0l/elle-01-nyf-ss15-zac-posen-v-mdn.jpg [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].

Posen 6- Vogue.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.com/aq_resizer/?url=/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/zac-posen-rtw-ss2015-runway-18.jpg&width=940&height=860&crop=&single=1&upscale=1 [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].

Posen 7- Photobucket, (2014). melanieannelea's image. [online] Available at: http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n574/melanieannelea/Jenny-Confessions%20of%20a%20Hairstylist/newpinhovergraphic_zps55b75f23.png [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].

WWD, (2014). Color Coordinating Backstage at Zac Posen. [online] Available at: http://www.wwd.com/runway/spring-ready-to-wear-2015/backstage-beauty/zac-posen [Accessed 4 Dec. 2014].

Burberry

Burberry 1- En.vogue.fr, (2014). [online] Available at: http://en.vogue.fr/uploads/images/thumbs/201408/en_backstage_du_d__fil___burberry_prorsum_automne_hiver_2014_2015_802048193_north_545x.1 [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].

Burberry 2- En.vogue.fr, (2014). [online] Available at: http://en.vogue.fr/uploads/images/thumbs/201408/en_backstage_du_d__fil___burberry_prorsum_automne_hiver_2014_2015_805796469_north_545x.1 [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].

Burberry 3- En.vogue.fr, (2014). [online] Available at: http://en.vogue.fr/uploads/images/thumbs/201408/en_backstage_du_d__fil___burberry_prorsum_automne_hiver_2014_2015_546554738_north_545x.1 [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].

Burberry 4- Harper's BAZAAR, (2014). A/W 2014-2015: Burberry Prorsum - Image 4 : Harper's BAZAAR. [online] Available at: http://www.harpersbazaar.com.au/runway-report/the-shows/ready-to-wear/2014/2/aw-2014-2015-burberry-prorsum/aw-2014-2015-burberry-prorsum-image-4/# [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].

Burberry makeup-O.aolcdn.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://o.aolcdn.com/hss/storage/adam/2981f7f4fd8a84dbeac42e8f66ee21fa/bruberry-makeup-autumn-winter-2014.jpg [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].

Burberry 6- Assets.cougar.nineentertainment.com.au, (2014). [online] Available at: http://assets.cougar.nineentertainment.com.au/Assets/HarpersBazaar/2014/02/18/94804/blr_fw14_101.jpg?MaxHeight=923&MaxWidth=826&Class=upsize&VAlign=Top&Align=Center&anchor=TopCenter [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].

Info- Elleuk.com, (2014). best make-up nyfw s/s 2015. [online] Available at: http://www.elleuk.com/beauty/make-up/best-make-up-looks-trends-new-york-fashion-week-spring-summer-2015#image=14 [Accessed 4 Dec. 2014].
- http://makeupforlife.net/2014/09/glowy-skin-red-lip-zac-posen-spring-summer-2015.html
Info- Jones, K. (2014). Burberry's Autumn/Winter 2014 Makeup: First Look!. [online] MyDaily UK. Available at: http://www.mydaily.co.uk/2014/02/18/burberrys-autumn-winter-2014-makeup-first-look/#!slide=aol_2433583 [Accessed 4 Dec. 2014].

Marc Jacobs

Jacobs 1- Cdni.condenast.co.uk, (2014). [online] Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/216x324/Shows/AW2014/New_York/R-T-W/Marc_Jacobs/Backstage/00200h_216x324.jpg [Accessed 4 Dec. 2014].

Jacobs 2- Cdni.condenast.co.uk, (2014). [online] Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/216x324/Shows/AW2014/New_York/R-T-W/Marc_Jacobs/Backstage/00190h_216x324.jpg [Accessed 4 Dec. 2014].

Jacob s 3- Cdni.condenast.co.uk, (2014). [online] Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/216x324/Shows/AW2014/New_York/R-T-W/Marc_Jacobs/Backstage/00260h_216x324.jpg [Accessed 4 Dec. 2014].

Jacobs 4- Cdni.condenast.co.uk, (2014). [online] Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/216x324/Shows/AW2014/New_York/R-T-W/Marc_Jacobs/Backstage/00060h_216x324.jpg [Accessed 4 Dec. 2014].

jacobs 5- Marieclaire.media.ipcdigital.co.uk, (2014). [online] Available at: http://marieclaire.media.ipcdigital.co.uk/11116/00007c3d1/f667_orh100000w332/Marc-Jacobs-Thumb.jpg [Accessed 4 Dec. 2014].

Jacobs eye-Cdni.condenast.co.uk, (2014). [online] Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/320x480/Shows/AW2014/New_York/R-T-W/Marc_Jacobs/Backstage/00070h_320x480.jpg [Accessed 4 Dec. 2014].
Info- Blushing Noir, (2014). NARS Beauty Report: Thakoon, Rodarte, Naeem Khan, Marc Jacobs AW ’14 - Blushing Noir. [online] Available at: http://www.blushingnoir.com/2014/02/nars-beauty-report-thakoon-rodarte-naeem-khan-marc-jacobs-aw-14/ [Accessed 4 Dec. 2014].
- Vogue UK, (2014). Marc Jacobs Autumn/Winter 2014-15 Ready-To-Wear. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2014/ready-to-wear/marc-jacobs [Accessed 4 Dec. 2014].