So came the day of the assessment. Once I had set up my work station, ensuring all products were available, I covered my model with a gown and arranged the height of her chair. I washed my hands. While cleansing my model's skin, I assessed her colouring and any skin conditions or problem areas. I did notice that she had quite a bad cold, so the area around her nose was quite red and dry. I then applied an ample amount of hydrating moisturiser to keep the skin looking dewy and to aid the dry areas caused by her cold and by harsh winter weather. Once the moisturuser had sunk in a little, I swept Strobe Cream over her entire face to add luminosity to the skin and aid with the dewy look I was recreating.
I then applied Mac Face and Body in C3 along her jaw line to check if it matched her natural colouring and then used a foundation brush to sweep and pat the foundation into the outer areas of her face. I applied the same technique used by Kabuki for Zac Possen and applied a matte foundation to the centre of the face (T-zone) to avoid highlighting the centre of the face, as the main dewy highlight was going to be focused on the cheek bones and outer areas of the face. Once I was happy with the application I used D32 ad Kryolan camouflage concealer to perfect the skin and hide and red or dark areas. I did not powder the skin to keep it looking dewy, however I really buffed the product into the skin. The Strobe Cream also helped the makeup last longer. Not using powder also allowed me to to keep adjusting the makeup around my models nose if she needed to used a tissue. (If I were to use powder in this situation, I would apply it to her nose last so I could keep touching it up.) I then used Morag Ross shade 117 from my Le Maquillage palette to sculpt my models cheek bones. I did not bring the contour out too far, as I think it appeared quite sharp at the starting point and was really blended out in the reference pictures I had studied.
I then groomed my models eye brows and applied a clear gel to set them in place for this fresh clean look. I applied the gel with a flat brush to get a god amount of product on the brow and then combed through.
Next, I mised a blush shade from my Kryolan Rouge palette and dabbed it onto her cheeks using my ring finger for a very subtle glow and really worked it into the skin. I moved onto the lip before adding any dewy highlights to the eyes and cheeks to keep the makeup looking as fresh as I could and to keep my model comfortable, as the gloss on the lid could be uncomfortable for some. I began by lining and filling the lip with Mac Cherry lip pencil, ensuring to hold my arm steady, then I filled the entire lip with Mac's Lady Danger. I chose this colour over a classic red as I noticed the orange undertones in the lip colour used by Kabuki. This colour is beautifully pigmented and just matte enough to be a stand out feature of the makeup. I also think it reflected the Zac Posen look well.
After I was happy with the lip after assessing the makeup from different angles (standing back) I began to apply the final dewy touches to the skin and eyes. I dabbed Vaseline along my models cheekbones and over the blush colour I had applied and at the very top of her forehead for a balanced dewy glow. I then began to mix the eye makeup shades together.
I mixed the products for the eye on the back of my hand using my ring ringer to warm up the product to make it easier to apply to the lid and then mixed a clear gloss in with it before dabbing it over the lid using the same finger. I brushed a small amount of product underneath the eye too, for a more uniform look.
The final step was to coat the top and bottom lashes with mascara. The look was complete.
Problem Solving
As I was aware, the products I applied to make the skin appear dewy would eventually eat away at the makeup, so I opted to apply these products last. To rectify this, in future, I would use a more professional product, such as Mac Shine, although I am pleased with the different dewy glows I managed to create using Vaseline and gloss.
Overall, I am really proud of the makeup look I created today and the techniques I used. I really studied the makeup from Zac Posen and did a lot of research to back up my use of certain products and application techniques. I really enjoyed recreating this makeup look by Kabuki for Zac Possen. It has furthered my desire to work in the fashion industry.
After setting up my work station, ensuring all products were accessible and heated appliances were placed safely with wires tucked away, I brushed my Dolly's hair through and straightened then ends to remove any frizz from previous styling. After doing this, I sectioned the hair, parting it to the side. I then used a powder root lifter create texture and volume by rubbing it into the roots at the front of the hair to create as much texture in the hair as possible. Hair designer Odile Gilbert used the same method to create lift and texture.
Next, I applied wet look gel to the palm of my hand and run my tail comb through the gel then combed the gel through the hair directionally to ensure and even coverage. Once the hair was evenly coated in gel, I began to sculpt the shapes created by Odile Gilbert. The brief was for the hair to look as if the model had emerged from water. I began by combing the front of the hair back and creating a wave using my comb and fingers.
After studying various images from the Zac Possen SS/15 show, I created a large curve on the left side of the hair bu sculpting the shape and then used heat from the blow dryer to set the shape. I then applied this method to set the rest of the sculpted shapes. For the next 10 minutes, I concentrated on taking the hair down into the lengths of the hair for the 'just emerged from water' look. I used my fingers to run the gel through the hair. I used my last five minutes to thinly apply more gel over the heated areas as it made the gel look slightly matte.
Overall, I am really pleased with the finished result and with the techniques I applied. I tried to apply the same techniques Oribe Gilbert used to make the hairstyles as similar as possible by using ample amounts of gel and using my fingers to sculpt. I think the shapes I created were similar to Oribe Gilberts. I studied copius amounts of images and techniques used backstage so I felt quite confident with the products and techniques I was going to use.
Shown below is a close up of the makeup worn for Zac Posen's SS15 catwalk show. I studied various pictures from the show for continuity before creating a face chart depicting the makeup look I will be recreating for my technical assessment. My face chart details the products I will be using and why.
My face chart depicting the hair and makeup look for Zac Posen SS15
Face
Mac Strobe Cream to illuminate skin
Mac Face and Body foundation on outer areas of the face for dewy look
Mac Studio Fix foundation on centre to matte
Mac Correct and Conceal Kryolan Derma palette applied to even and perfect skin tone
Mac Shine Mixing Medium/ Vaseline dabbed onto the cheekbones for dewy highlight
Le Maquillage (Morag Ross) 117 for sharp contour
Kryolan Rouge LC006/LC004 dabbed onto skin for slight blush on cheeks
Eyes
Boujour Cream shadow Desir mixed with Kryolan Rouge LC006 and dabbed onto the eyelid
Clear gloss dabbed over the lid for dewy/wet look
Mac Haute & Naughty Black Mascara applied to top and bottom lashes
Lips
Mac Cherry lip pencil to define and fill the lip
Mac Russian Red swept over the lip for a hint of orange
Hair
Wet look gel and root lifter applied to root of hair to
sculpt shape
Heat applied to set sculpted shape
Shine hair spray to keep wet look and hold shape
Top image-Makeupforlife.net, (2014). [online] Available at: http://makeupforlife.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/glowy-skin-red-lip-zac-posen-spring-2015.jpg [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].
Zac Possen SS/15
Makeup: Kabuki for M.A.C.
Hair: Odile Gilbert for Kerastase
Products used (taken from various research sources)
SKIN
·Witch-hazel ·Primer ·Mac Face and Body Foundation/ Mac matte Mastermatch Foundation ·Mac Shine Mixing Medium ·Mac Studio Finish Concealer
My
View: I chose to recreate this look because it combines a
classic red lip makeup look with a twist. The twist being the matte lips
juxtaposing against the glossy eye. Usually, a typical makeup look will depict
a matte eye alongside a glossy lip so this particular look intrigued me. I love
the clean cutting edge effect having a glossy eye against a clean matte lip
has. The hair complements the makeup beautifully by incorporating a glamorous
style to match the glamorous red lip, while being glossy reminiscent of the eye
makeup. These elements used together fell in with the simplistic yet powerful
colours and sharp tailoring of Zac Posen’s designs. It was a beautiful and coherent
overall look. Each element harmonized with the other and one did not stand out
more than another for a flawless finish.
My
research: While researching Zac Possen’s SS/15
look, I discovered the overall theme was simplicity. This reflected in the
makeup. He said “Simplicity is its
strength, which fits with the mood of this season’s collection.” (Makeupforlife.net, 2014)To
achieve the clean, fresh base, Kabuki began by using Witch-hazel to really clean the skin to enhance the foundation
application. For a natural skin base, he applied two different foundations- one matte and one dewy to avoid certain areas of the face being highlighted by shine and light. He usedFace and Body, using a slightly darker tone on
the outer parts of the face to depict a natural
skin tone, creating a very natural barely-there skin base and applied Mac matte Matchmaster in the centre of the face. He then
concealed any areas that needed more coverage and used peach tones under the
eyes to counteract any blue tones. I think Mac shine mixing medium was used to give the cheekbones a dewy highlight. If I didn't have access to this product, I would opt for a clear gloss or Vaseline for shine. It doesn’t seem that powder was used to set
the makeup; I would assume that this was to keep the skin looking dewy, sporty
and sheer. I could not find any information on what products were used on the
cheeks but I assume from assessing pictures of the makeup that a sheer
application of a pink blush with peachy tones was used, such as Mac Something Special Cremeblend blush to complement the natural tones in the cheeks as well as the orangey tones
on the eye and keep the makeup looking sheer, unlike using a powder blush that
would have made the cheek area matte. I have also assumed that the cheekbones
were contoured to elevate this structured look and suit the tailoring in the
attire. I would use shade 117 from my
Morag Ross Le Maquillage palette to contour. The blush tone is not very obvious although there is a slight hit of colour. I think I would apply a sheer lipstick over a creme blush for subtlety.
Kabuki applied a sheer layer of Keep it Loose on the eyelid, using his
finger to sculpt the lid. I think a shine mixing medium was also swept across the lid to coincide with the wet look hair and dewy cheeks. The top and bottom lashes were then coated with
mascara using a brush instead of a wand.
Kabuki then lined and
filled the lips in with Cherry lip
pencil and filled with Red Lip Mix
for a semi-matte finish to contrast with the shiny eye.
Zac Posen Hair and Makeup SS/15
The two video's below detail what went on backstage at Zac Posen SS/15. It includes the influences behind the hair and makeup designs.
References
Info-style.com, (2014).Zac
Posen Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show: Runway Review - Style.com. [online] Available at:
http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/zac-posen
[Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].
-Makeupforlife.net,
(2014).Runway Beauty: Glowy Skin with Red Lip at Zac Posen
Spring/Summer 2015 - Makeup For Life. [online]
Available at:
http://makeupforlife.net/2014/09/glowy-skin-red-lip-zac-posen-spring-summer-2015.html
[Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].
- WWD, (2014). Color Coordinating Backstage at Zac Posen. [online] Available at: http://www.wwd.com/runway/spring-ready-to-wear-2015/backstage-beauty/zac-posen [Accessed 4 Dec. 2014].
As I have decided to recreate Zac Posen's SS15 catwalk look, I looked further into the key makeup artist for the show. Kabuki was born in England but made his name in New York City working on Sex and the City, establishing the makeup looks for Sarah Jessica Parker, Cynthia Nixon and Kristin Davis. This was his first real makeup job! Since then, he has worked on feature films such as Party Monster and worked with stars such as Rhianna, Uma Therman, Lady Gaga and Michael Jackson. His work had been featured in Vogue, ELLE, Harper's Bazaar and Italian Vogue and he has worked on editorial and beauty campaigns for D&G, Zac Posen, NARS and MAC.
Kabuki Mood board
My favourite makeup look created by Kabuki features James Franco depicted as a woman for Candy Magazine (see above, image 3). I like this look because I think it was really cleverly done to blend masculine and feminine qualities. Although James Franco looks beautiful and the makeup by Kabuki is applied beautifully, I couldn't help but notice that although Kabuki used typically drag bright colours on the eyes and lips, he stopped the overall look from looking too 'drag queen' inspired. I love how he developed the shape of the eyes and lips without overly slimming the face using contouring techniques. He also left his brows.This made the overall look of the shoot seem more serious, instead of having a cartoon drag queen feel. The overall look is more believable and I think this is purely down to the clever contrasts in makeup- Instead of making James Franco look like a man dressed as a woman, he appears as a masculine woman. I think this was down to the lack of contouring and leaving his natural eyebrows to frame the eye.
I would love to re-create a look similar to this using the same techniques for the overall look. I would use full coverage foundations and bold colours such as Makeup Forevers's Aqua Matic Glide-On eye shadow in Teal on the eye. I would use Makeup Forever's Rouge Artist Intense lipstick in Rebellious Red all over the lip, lined using Mac Cherry lip pencil.
Kabuki is also inspiring to me, as he helped create such loved and relatable characters such as Carrie Bradshaw!
Info- swingin'sam.designs, s. and swinginsam, s. (2014). kabuki magic - biography. [online] Kabukimagic.com. Available at: http://www.kabukimagic.com/biography.php [Accessed 1 Dec. 2014].
All mood board images found at- Style, M. (2014). Awesome Exclusive Interview With Katy Perry's 'E.T.' Makeup Artist: Kabuki!. [online] Style. Available at: http://style.mtv.com/2011/03/31/kabuki-makeup-katy-perry-et-video/ [Accessed 1 Dec. 2014]. Video- Anon, (2014). [image] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ur-L9js50TA [Accessed 1 Dec. 2014].
Working
hygienically reduces the risk of cross-infection and helps prevent the
contamination of your makeup. Dirty brushes, unwashed hands can spread and
harbor Infectious conditions like conjunctivitis. Providing an unsafe service
puts your clients and your career at risk. Infectious conditions to look out
for include conjunctivitis, impetigo, herpes and scabies.
· Don’t keep makeup beyond its
shelf life- Keep track of use by dates. If the makeup begins to
smell funny, it’s past it’s shelf life and should not be used
·Sterilize all brushes and tools after use- Clean
brushes using IPA and sterilize brushes and other tools such as tweezers in
Barbicide
·Be extra careful when a client has a skin, eye or mouthinfection- If a skin condition is detected, use cotton
buds to apply makeup and do not use fingers to apply makeup to infected areas
to avoid cross contamination
·Use clean towels- Always make sure towels are clean and dry before use and put them in a laundry basket as soon as you are finished with them to avoid them mistakenly
being used again
· Clean and sterilize anything
dropped on the floor- Make sure anything that is dropped that you
will not use again is put aside to avoid using it again. If it is needed, sterilize
before using it again.
Etiquette is a very important part of
being a successful hair and makeup artist. As well as keeping yourself and your client
safe, it is important to make sure they are comfortable in your presence and with what you are doing. Being up close to someone’s face can be quite daunting,
especially if an elaborate makeup design is being applied. It is helpful to
both the artist and the client to explain what is being done, how it might feel
and to tell your client you are going back to an area if the eyes are closed to
avoid flinching. Having sufficient knowledge of your trade and the products you are using will make the client feel confident and if any problems occur, knowledge of products will help solve it.
For the technical assessment, I must recreate a look from the listed catwalk shows including hair and makeup. I have researched all four shows to help me decide which look to recreate. My decision will be based on what hair and makeup I think will suit my model best, what products I have available to me and what particular hair and makeup look I think will show off my skills.
Tanya Taylor
Tanya Taylor SS/15 Mood board
Research: The look for Tanya Taylor SS/15 kept within Taylor's usual clean, effortless style but added a bold twist with a bright orange lip using Nars Satin Lip Pencil. Makeup artist Uzo used tinted moisturizer on the skin to add luminosity for a fresh clean look. Light shimmer on the eye and a bold tangy lip kept the overall makeup looking zingy and fresh- perfect for Spring and Summer. When assessing pictures from the show, I noticed that the eyebrows are well groomed into place but are not filled in- this is definitely a big factor in keeping the face looking clean and dewy and allows the lip to pop and accentuate the bold oranges and blues, which are complementary colours. Tanya said of this look "It feels like a very wearable yet energetic look".(Cleminson, 2014)
To complement this polished look with an edgy twist, hairstylist Allan Wood created a dynamic look incorporating sleek backed hair which transformed into a loose twist- the sleek part of the hair reflecting the clean makeup and the twist reflecting the unexpected in the bold lip. This style also added feel to the well tailored yet feminine attire.
I am definitely thinking about re-creating this look because it is so clean and beautiful. For a sheer clean base I would use Mac Face and Body foundation and use my Mac Pro palette to conceal any areas that needed it. I would use a clear gel on the eyebrows to slick them into place to keep the entire look clean and dewy. For the eyes, I think I would dab the product on the eyelid with my finger to add to the natural look. I think the heat from my hands would warm the product up nicely, allowing it to sweep over the eye with ease for an effortless look and apply mascara to the top lashes only to keep the eye wide and bright. My main concentration would definitely be on the lip, which I would pencil line and then pencil in the entire lip to add depth to the overall colour.
Zac Posen
Zac Posen SS/15 Mood board
Research: A similar look was seen at Zac Posen SS/15. Dewy skin alongside a strong bold lip was the standout look. Key makeup artist Kabuki kept the look simplistic. It shows a reverse in gloss an eye textures- the eyelid being shiny and the lip being matte. This added to the sleek look of the entire collection. Key products that were used include Mac Lipmix in Red and Mac Face and Boy foundation that aided this dewy simplistic look. Kabuki used Face and Body on the outer part of the face and Mac matte Mastermatch foundation in the centre to keep only the outer arts of the face highlighted. Hair stylist Odile Gilbert complemented the clean cut tailoring and colours alongside the bold red lip and dewy eye by keeping the hair sleek and shiny. While watching a video about the backstage process, Odile is seen explaining the overall look for hair and explains she wanted it to look sleepk at the front and like the model had just emerged from water at the back. She used her fingers to break up the hair at the back to keep it looking softer and more natural. She used Kerastase Lift Vertige to lift the roots at the front of the hair and applied Kerastase Forme Fatale over the hair to create the wet look. She blow dried the product in at the front to help sculpt and set the shapes created.
This is my favourite look out of the four because I love the contrast in the lip and eye textures and think the texture and stylized waves in the hair really give the Zac Posen models the edge that the clothes also give. Keeping the hair and makeup sleek added class and power to the overall look. This, alongside Posen's regimental use of colour and shape made for a very strong feminine look. If I were to recreate this makeup, I would have to think about what products would work best on the eye to make it shiny. Vaseline could be used or a high shine mixing medium, such as Shine by Mac. I would gently dab it over the eye with my fingers to avoid creating any brush marks or brush hairs being seen on the dewy lid. The same product could also be used on the cheekbones to add a dewy highlight. Like Tanya Taylor, I would keep the brows clean and well groomed with gel but avoid filling them in to allow the lip to do the talking! I would line and fill the entire lip with Mac Cherry lip pencil and coat the lip with a matte lip shade such as Lady Danger, as it has slight orange tones. I would try to apply the same methods as Odile Gilbert did to create the hair and use gel to help mold the hair into a shape and heat it to set. I would use my fingers to apply the product through the lengths of the hair and create a contrasting natural flow.
Burberry Prorsum
Burberry Prorsum AW/14 Mood board
Research: The look for Burberry's A/W 14 look was inspired by the girls of the Bloomsbury Group who were an association of artists, writers and intellectuals from the early 20th century. The makeup featured healthy glowing complexions and soft plum eyes and natural lips. Key makeup artist Wendy Rowe used the darkest shade from Burberry's Complete Eye Palette in Nude Blush on the eye along with the Khol pencil in Stone on the waterline to open up the eye. Burberry's Fresh Glow foundation was used on the skin to create the signature Burberry Glow while protecting the skin from the elements of winter. Hair stylist Neil Moodie created natural waves and added shine and texture for a 'day two hair' look, which I think adds to the Autumn Winter feel, like hair being blown in the cold wind, giving a natural texture.
As I don't have any of the product used above, if I were to re-create this look, I would have to really assess the colours used. Similar products I have include Calvin Klein Sheer Creme eyeshadow in Retro Bronze and my Ben Nye Glam Shadow palette which includes plum tones such as Eggplant and Brownberry. All these shades have subtle brown and plum shades. I think the brown tones add depth to the plum shade and keep it looking to summery and light. As the eyes are shiny, I would apply Vaseline using my finger to the lid to create this look. I would also use my nude eye pencil by NYX to line the waterline and open up the eye. I would keep the lips natural, dabbing only a small amount of product on the lips with my finger to add slight shine and colour to complement the shades used on the eyes and cheeks using pinks with purple undertones, such as Blush Baby by Mac. Once again, this is a very clean look so the eyebrows are kept well groomed with little product. I would simply fill any gaps in the brows using a powder to keep the look soft and natural. I also think I could use a foundation with a slightly fuller coverage and apply powder to stop the skin looking too dewy and summery, like the looks before. I would love to use Burberry's Fresh Glow foundation but would probably use Revoln's Photoready foundation as it has light reflecting particles to make the skin glow.
Here is a video backstage at Burberry AW/14:
Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs AW/14 Mood board
Research: The most outrageous look of all four choices is from Marc Jacobs AW/14 catwalk show. All the models wore wigs coloured by Victoria Hunter and styles by Guido Palau in natural mink browns and soft lilac tones that matched the attire perfectly. It's straight cut edges juxtaposed with the flowing light materials and gave the look an edge. Francois Nars created flawless skin and contoured socket lines alongside light grey eyelids and nude lips. This really complemented the dynamic hair and teamed with bleached out eyebrows, the look emitted a futuristic look. The high contour on the eye created a faux socket line while the light grey shadow opened up the eye area. Together, these elements made the eye area look quite alien- like, as the larger emphasis was kept at the top of the face. Sharp cheek contours and nude lips also helped slim the face, giving an alien- like shape. Francois Nars said of this look: “The makeup look was really inspired by the collection, which is very “matte.” There’s nothing too silky and I wanted that to translate to the makeup. The models look like mannequins. The eyelid is a pale neutral grey and we made it look bigger by foregoing mascara. The lips have a touch of frosted metallic silver. We used a lot of powder for a matte, porcelain finish.” (Blushing Noir, 2014)
This would be the most transforming look to recreate, however I don't think I would be able to create such a desired effect as I could not bleach out my models eyebrows. I am really impressed how each single element of the hair and makeup adds dimensions to this futuristic mannequin look. Without the straight cut hair, the makeup would not have as much edge and vice versa. If I were to recreate this look, I would make good use of my Ben Nye Glam Shadow palette and use the taupe and brown tones to create the socket line and mix Cobblestone and Shell together to fill the eyelid. I would use the same palette to contour the cheek area. I would opt for a powder product to contour with as the makeup is very matte. I would apply loose powder and press and roll the product into the skin to really set the base and really matte out the skin. I think the matte skin complements the dusty shades used for the hair perfectly. In an attempt to block out the brows, I would use my Kryolan Derma palette to match a suitable skin tone and brush into the brows, as it is a highly pigmented product.
References Tanya Taylor
Taylor 1- I0.wp.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://i0.wp.com/www.fashionisingpictures.net/runway/tanya-taylor-beauty-spring-summer-2015-nyfw3.jpg [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].
Taylor eye and lip- I0.wp.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://i0.wp.com/www.fashionisingpictures.net/runway/tanya-taylor-beauty-spring-summer-2015-nyfw3.jpg [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].
Taylor 4- Strandednyc.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://www.strandednyc.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_3695-682x1024.jpg [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].
Taylor 5- Anon, (2014). [image] Available at: http://ttps://d36di5nvqr47bo.cloudfront.net/photos/9828/39480/tanya-taylor-ready-to-wear-spring-summer-2015-new-york-9828-looks-20140905-467247/Tanya-Taylor-New-York-RTW-SS15-0077-1409919708-thumb.jpg [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].
Taylor makeup- Najlakaddour.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://najlakaddour.com/wp-content/uploads/NARS_Tanya-Taylor_SS15_Facechart-2.jpg [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014].
Taylor 7- S1.r29static.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://s1.r29static.com/bin/entry/c2c/x,80/1281209/tat-ss15-021-2-copy-2.jpg [Accessed 3 Dec. 2014]. Info- Cleminson, R. (2014). #StrandedBackstage | Tanya Taylor SS15: Our Search for the Ultimate Cool Girl. [online] Stranded NYC. Available at: http://www.strandednyc.com/tanya-taylor-ss15-nyfw-bumble-nars/ [Accessed 4 Dec. 2014].
Jacob s 3- Cdni.condenast.co.uk, (2014). [online] Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/216x324/Shows/AW2014/New_York/R-T-W/Marc_Jacobs/Backstage/00260h_216x324.jpg [Accessed 4 Dec. 2014].
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
