Current Trends in Fashion Hair and Makeup End of Year Evaluation

My first year at West Thames college learning hair and makeup techniques for fashion and current trends had been imperative to my future career. I found starting from the basics in both hair and makeup enabled me to gain confidence and skill in things such as foundation selections and application and forming a simple plait. I found perfecting the simple skills early on allowed me to gain confidence and apply the correct techniques when applying more advanced techniques, including different types of braiding and highlighting and contouring techniques. I also found being introduced to health and safety rules and regulations, as well as etiquette stopped me from picking up and bad habits and taught me things to look out for, such as skin conditions.

I am very pleased with the work I have produced in all current trends modules and I worked hard to gain the grades I got by not only researching hair and makeup artists and the looks they produced but the products and techniques they applied to achieve the results they did. This kind of extensive research helped me gain a distinction in both hair and makeup applications for my recreation of a SS15 hair and makeup look from fashion week.  This particular module is the one I am most proud of, not only for the overall look but the amount of research I put into it, which made me feel confident in the products and application techniques I used.

I also found applying all my research, classes and inspirations on an online blog very helpful to applying thorough and current research, such as video’s, which would depict many different looks, interviews with artists and application methods and I feel using an online blog to submit work was a lot less stressful when arranging information, adding more information in and successfully submitting it. Although I did find the idea of submitting my work online in a blog very daunting at the beginning due o my lack of confidence with technology, I am glad to have been pushed out of my comfort zone.

 

I was also pushed out of my comfort zone when given the task to arrange a photo shoot with a model, photographer and location outside of college hours. As scary as the idea was, I knew I would encounter similar experiences in the future, as this type of career entails communicating with an array of people including models, photographers and stylists. Being made to advertise, seek out and speak to photographers and models for this project really helped to break the ice and made me conquer a fear! As a result of project, I found a photographer with a great studio who said he would be happy to work with me again. I loved the whole experience of finding and working with a suitable model, designing a look suitable for their colouring and the overall feel for the shoot, as well as helping to design specific pieces.

Overall, I have enjoyed my first year at West Thames and have highly benefited from lessons in current hair and makeup trends. My confidence in foundation selections, makeup applications and knowledge of artist and products has increased massively. And while I still struggle with finding confidence with hair, it has definitely improved any my idea have become more elaborate and thought out. 

The Day of the Assessment

The day of the assessment arrived and I bustled into college carrying my headdress, hair piece and plaster bust. Once I had set up my work station, placing base, eye and lip products and hair products in different sections, I adjusted my models seat so I was at eye level with her, applied a white gown and washed my hands.

I then cleansed my models skin and applied an eye lid primer to her top lids and pated it in with my ring finger before applying gold shimmer shadow along the lash line and blending a shimmery bronze eye shadow over three quarters of her eye lid. Next, I applied the orange shade from my Morag Ross Le Maquillage palette and blended it over the outer corner of her eyelid, bringing the shade upwards slightly to create a flattering eye shape. I then set this cream foundation product with a bright orange eye shadow shade from my Revolution palette to help stop the product creasing. I then lined her top lash line with a thin black line created using Mac Feline eye pencil and smudged it lightly with a small brush, as I did not want it (or any of the makeup) to be too refined. I then moved onto the lower lash line, which I shaded with Mac Smokey Taupe and lined the waterline with two different pencils- black in the inner corner and brown on the rest to create depth, while keeping the eye more natural and earthy looking. I then applied the same orange shade as before under the Smokey Taupe shade and blended it into the same shade applied to the top lid using a small brush and my ring finger. To finish the eye area, I applied mascara to the top lashes.

Next, I applied moisturiser to my models skin before applying a hydrating under eye primer and a photo finish primer. I then mixed together the two Mac Face and Body shades I had previously matched to my models skin (C3 AN N5) along with Makeup Forever cream foundation in Caramel. I applied the foundation using a foundation brush and my ring finger to diminish any lines caused by the brush. I then used my Mac Pro concealer palette to even out her skin tone and conceal any darker areas on her face. I also used the same bright orange Le Maquillage shade to conceal dark areas around her mouth and blended into the foundation. I then applied the highlight shade (Makeup Forever shade Natural Beige) to the centre of my model, Alicia’s forehead, along her brow bone; centre of her chin and under her eyes. I hen blended it into her skin for a natural flawless finish by bouncing a beauty blender over the areas. I applied the same method when blending the shaded areas on the face using Makeup Forever’s cream foundation in Chocolate Beige and shade 117 from my Morag Ross Le Maquillage palette. Once I had thoroughly blended the different shades, I set with Mac Prep+Prime powder using a fluffy brush, which I patted over her entire face.

Next, I moved onto the lip, which I lined and filled with a natural liner and lipstick. I then got my model to hold a tissue under her lip while I pressed the same gold and bronze eye shadows I used on her eyes onto her lips, using the gold shade to act as a lighter ombre shade in the centre of her lips. To add more shape and depth to the lip, I softly lined them using a brown liner and shading it into the corners of her lips to add to the ombre effect.

Finally, I began work on her eyebrows. I began by brushing them through, pointing the hairs upwards and filling in with Ben Nye Black eye shadow.  I chose to use this product as it is well pigmented while still creating a soft effect, as I wanted to add detail to her eye brows, which would resemble feathery type strokes. I created this detail in the eyebrows by using a very thin angled brush to gently sweep the eye shadow upwards. To add more dramatic effect, I applied a small amount of spirit gum to a clean mascara want and gently brushed her natural eyebrow hairs upwards, ensuring to not stick the hairs to her skin, as I wanted to create texture on the face. I hen filled any gaps with more feathery detail using the black eye shadow. To finish he look, used an eye shadow brush bring the black eye shadow down the sides o the nose from the eyebrows. I blended it along with Coco Brown and Mink Stole to add depth and warmth.

I then moved onto the hair. After washing the makeup products off of my hands and lowering my models chair, I combed her hair through and sectioned it in preparation to create a pin curl. I took a section of hair from the middle, coiled it and cross gripped it into place. I then placed the hair piece onto the pin curl and used more grips to then secure it into place. Once it felt sturdy, I gathered up the remaining natural hair and formed in around the hair piece and secured with a hair band. I then took the black ribbon, tied it around the hair piece alongside Alicia’s natural hair and then wrapped it around and secured. This really made the hair piece feel secure. I then plugged in my hot glue gun and used it to help wrap artificial onion grass I had stuck together in strips of two or three around the ribbon. Using the ribbon also helped protect my models hair, as I glued the onion grass to the ribbon.  Once all the onion grass was secured, I placed the flowing hair piece to the back of the hair by sliding two grips into the fish tail braid to conceal it.

I then began tidying up the rest of my models hair. As it is cut very short along the sides, a lot of hairs tended to stick up, as her hair is cut to fall a specific way and I was trying to secure the hair in the opposite direction. I used gel and hair spray, which I combed through the hair using a pin tail comb. Although some hairs remained stubborn, I managed to lay most of the shorter hairs down and conceal any grips.

I then attached the headdress into the hair, using grips.

I used my last few minutes to touch up any creases under my models eyes and tuck in loose hairs on the hair piece.

Overall, I am really pleased with the finished look. I am really proud of the hair and makeup looks I designed, especially the hair, as I tend to lack confidence in this area, which is why I wanted to push myself for the final assessment. And although it was still not the most perfect hair style, I am still pleased, as I feel I created quite a unique design that complemented the theme, headdress and makeup well. If I were to create this air style again, I would ensure the hair was as flat as it could be along the top and sides by smoothing the hair over using the same products, then laying a hair net over the area before applying heat. However, I would not change anything about the makeup design application or products used as I feel it really fit the character profile I created within the brief and the use of different textures worked well. 

Finished makeup look- flawless base/ heavy contour/ feathered brows/ textured makeup

Fishtail braid secured in place

Headdress on

Me and my beautiful and patient model

Full costume to complete the look

Final Design Image

Hair and Makeup Practise on my Model...

I applied the same makeup design on my model, using the products I used on myself (I applied darker base colours wen practising on myself) to see how he design looked on my model

Flawless base application using Mac Face and Body and Makeup Forever foundations- Highlight and shading.

After constructing the warrior style fishtail braid, I now needed to find a way to neatly attach it to my models hair. After playing about with her hair and trying different ways to secure it, I opted to create a pin curl as a sturdy base for the braid and gripped it into place then gathered her natural hair around it. I found this was the best and neatest way to achieve the desired effect. To disguise the bands and grips, I secured black ribbon around the join of the natural and weft hair. This trapped any fly away hairs and furthered secured the hair piece in place. On the day of the assessment, I plan to apply the same method but conceal the black ribbon with the same artificial onion grass I have used to decorate the fishtail braid...

Hair Design for Final Assessment

Hair Designs- Tribal Influences

Design 1: This particular hair design was influenced by two different tribes; the Himba tribe, who use goat fur and clay to form ref dreadlocks with fluffy textured ends and the Zulu tribe, who braid their hair forward, onto the face. To incorporate both, I designed a hairstyle depicting a braid coming onto the face with textured ends to resemble the goat fur. If I were to create this hair style for my final image, I would begin by combing the sides of the hair upwards, smoothing over with a postiche brush and cross-gripping the hair in place. I would then braid the remaining hair gathered in the centre upwards from the nape of the neck, bringing it onto the forehead. I would then curl the hair, using small hot sticks and once set, I would back comb the curls to resemble the fluffy goat fur. 

Design 2: Although this hair style I designed for the tribal theme is simple, it is quite effective as it has a strong warrior feel to it. The hair is tied back ready for battle and metal pipe is used to manipulate the shape of the hair, bringing the pony tail far away from the head. This hair style was influenced by the many tribes who are known for disfiguring their bodies, elongating their necks, heads and lips, for example. If I were to create this style, I would maybe use a selection of hair bands to tie the hair away from the head and simply cover the bands with a thin sheet of metal or even paint a kitchen roll tube to look metal.

Design 3: I designed this hair style based more on a warrior than tribal, although I think the braid at the side adds a tribal feel. If I were to create this style, I would begin by applying Carmen rollers to the hair in a brick set, rolling the hair backwards and under down the middle section and applying the rollers vertically, rolling in wards at the sides to bring the hair back. Once cooled, I would remove the rollers along the sides and apply a single corn row plait. I would then remove the rollers in the middle section and back comb the hair at the roots one by one. I would then smooth the hair over with a postiche brush.

Design 4: I designed this style based on Alexander McQueen’s desire to make women feel empowered and be feared. I think both the Mohawk and the long warrior braid are quite intimidating, as it is quite a daring style. To create this style, I would begin by combing the sides of the hair upwards, smoothing over with a postiche brush and cross-gripping the hair in place, then straightening and applying gel to the ends of the hair to create a straight Mohawk. I would use long hair wefts, along with onion grass to form a messy braid.

Playing around with braiding

More Makeup Ideas and Practise...

After feeling that the makeup look I had designed was incomplete in some way, I decided to have another play about with the colours I had chosen to incorporate into the final look, including orange, brown and black tones, along with brushed up eye brows.

As my headdress is designed to look like worn metal (bronze), I decided to include metallic shades into the makeup which would complement the shades used in the headdress, so I used gold, bronze, brown and black tones around the eyes to create an in depth look. As I still wanted to use the bright orange tone along the eyes for a splash of bright colour that matched the orange tones in the pheasant feathers featured on my mask design. 

I designed the eye makeup by applying gold eye shadow along the entire length of my eye lid, ensuring it was applied widely enough to not be covered by a winged liner. I then applied a bronze eye shadow to the top lid, leaving the outer corner. I used a shimmery Taupe Mac shade along my lower lash line. I then filled the section of my outer top lid with the orange shade (56) from my Morag Ross Le Maquillage palette and blended the shade outwards, using my ring finger. I bought the orange shade under my lower lash line and blended outwards again. To add depth to the eye makeup (which it lacked before), I lined the top lid with Mac eye pencil in Feline along with a quarter of the waterline. I filled the rest of my waterline with a brown khol pencil to not close the eye too much. Once complete, I applied mascara to the top lashes. I decided against applying mascara to the bottom lashes because, once again, I did not want the makeup to look too glamorous. I still wanted it to look raw.

 

I used the same metallic shades on the lip to add a sense of symmetry to the makeup. I began by filling and lining my lips with a natural shade, then pressing the bronze shadow into the corners of my top and bottom lips. I then pressed the gold eye shadow into the centre, to add the same dimension onto the lips as the eyes. For further enhance the lips, I then applied a small amount of loose gold pigment, which really made the lips pop. I then softly lined the lips using a brown pencil to stop the lips appearing lost on the face due to the pale shimmer shades. I feel the use of a darker lip line redefined the shape of the lips and evened out the eyes and the lips.

The base required a lot of products because I wanted it to be dark and glowing. To achieve this, I mixed together two Mac Face and Body fluid foundations along with a rich cream foundation called Caramel by Makeup Forever. Doing this helped create a base with a dewy glow but with a rich depth to it. To add more depth to the base makeup, I applied a cream foundation highlight shade to my chin, under my eyes, down the bridge of my nose, along my brow bone and the centre of my forehead. I blended it in with a damp beauty blender. To contour, I used a rich brown shade, called Chocolate Beige (Makeup Forever cream foundation) and applied it along the cheekbone, temples, top of the forehead and jaw line and blended with the other side of the beauty blender. To add more depth of colour, I used a darker contour shade (Moag Ross Le Maquillae shade 117) to the very top of the contoured areas of my cheeks and head and blended again. This gave the effect I wanted- a tribal warrior out in the heat all day hunting, with beautifully tanned a glowing skin. I set with a dusting of Mac Prep+Prime powder to avoid losing the dewy finish. I further enhanced the highlighted and contoured areas with powder products to add depth of colour. I used Mac Soft & Gentle to highlight and Ben Nye Glam shadows in Mink Stole and Coco Brown to add warmth.

To finish and round off the makeup look, I filled my eyebrows in with a deep black shadow, brushing my eyebrows upwards and following the motions with the black eye shadow to emphasise the length of the hairs, to create wild brows- a tribal version of the simple brushed up brows seen on the SS15 catwalk. I then blended the black eye shadow down onto the sides of the nose, as I loved his part of the look I designed previously, as I think it looks really tribal and will complement the shape of my mask. To finalise the brows, I brushed a small amount of spirit gum through them to add texture to the brows and adding a more natural feel the shapes created with eye shadow.

Overall, I really love this makeup look I created. I finally feel happy with the look; however, I am going to practise applying this makeup on my model as what may look good on me may not look good on someone else. But I do feel I have taken my models skin tone, face shape and eye colour into account so the colours and products used should work. So far, I do not plan to change anything to the makeup look...

Braiding- Tribal/ Constructing the braid

After designing different hair styles inspired by the tribal theme, I decided to incorporate a plait/ braid into my final design as braids are used widely to style African and tribal hair. I think forming a long, bold plait will allow me to incorporate different natural materials, such as onion grass into the hair while the hair being slicked back into a long braid emphasises a strong female warrior feel.

Below are a collection of high fashion hair styles featuring braids, influenced by a tribal theme. The images show different types of braiding, including corn rows, messy fish tail braids and repunzal style plaits called Eembuvi Braids, worn by the women of the Mbalantu tribe from Namibia.

Hairstyles incorporating braids can also be seen in a previous mood board created to show different styles influenced by a tribal theme. 

After looking at various images, I decided to create a messy fishtail braid to suggest a warrior feel- the hair is swept back, ready to fight/ hunt, but has become messy while doing so. After discovering the tribe who wore their hair in very long styles and braids, I decided to make the fishtail braid quite long.

As my models had naturally short hair on top and shaved at the sides, I decided to order two wigs off of the internet. I ordered a maroon wig and a brown one, to match her hair colour. I then pulled at the stitching of the wigs to release the wefts of synthetic hair, mixed the colours together with some replica onion grass and formed into a fish tail braid.

Below a images of the step by step process of creating the tribal braid for my final design, starting from the wigs I ordered to the end product...

 

After removing the hair wefts from the wig cap, I braided the lengths into a fishtail. 

Once I had braided an entire length of the synthetic hair, I secured it at the end with a band and repeated the braiding process with three more sections, securing it to the end of the previous fish tail braid. I wrapped some more onion grass around the secured sections of the hair to disguise the band and also add more tribal detail to the style I had decided I wanted the braid to have a powerful shape that would complement the curved shape of the headdress, so I threaded wire into the top section of the braid and formed into a curved shape to coincide with the headdress and add a high fashion tribal feel.

I wrapped replica onion grass around the ends of the hair to join the braids together to add length. 

I threaded a piece of wire into the top section of the braid to reform the shape- adding height.  

Applying aqua colour to alter the shape and shine.

To finish, I applied black aqua colour to sections of the hair, using small sweeps to add a darker shade into the hair, to further match with my models. I also found that the use of aqua colour diminished some of the shine of the synthetic hair, making it look a bit more natural.

I plan to braid the front of my models hair and use her natural hair to merge with the fish tail braid. Nevertheless, I do want the entire style to look messy and not too styles, to add to the earthy and aggressive themes linked to tribal themes, therefore, I am not aiming to create the neatest join between the natural and synthetic hair, resembling hairstyles designed by Nicholas Jurnjack for Alexander McQueen’s show, It's A Jungle Out There. 

Hair Inspiration-  by Nicholas Jurnjack for It's A Jungle Out There- Alexander McQueen. 

          

My hair design for the final look.

How the braid complements the shape of the headdress.

References

Mood board

Image 1- S-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com, (2015). [online] Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/32/4a/fc/324afc14154cd6623cede2a989edd133.jpg [Accessed 4 May 2015].

Image 2- Rubihair.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://www.rubihair.com/img/174 [Accessed 4 May 2015].

Image 3- Porcelainista.net, (2015). [online] Available at: http://www.porcelainista.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Screen-Shot-2014-03-20-at-21.40.55-.png [Accessed 4 May 2015].

Image 4- Denimjeansobserver.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://www.denimjeansobserver.com/mag/designer-denim-jeans-fashion/2014/ss/brands-j01/junya-watanabe-2014-spring-summer-womens-runway-paris-fashion-week-show-france-denim-jeans-patchwork-tribal-print-braided-fringe-native-american-hippie-draped-02x.jpg [Accessed 14 May 2015].

Image 5- Poshglam.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://www.poshglam.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/00030m-mcqueen1.jpg [Accessed 4 May 2015].

Image 6- Static.messynessychic.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://static.messynessychic.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/women_long_hair.jpg [Accessed 4 May 2015].

Makeup Ideas, Face Charts and Practise

Look 1

My inspiration behind this makeup design came from Diane Kendal’s makeup look created for Alexander McQueen’s Fall/Winter 2012/13 show. This particular makeup inspires me being it is so haunting. The use of colours and shapes alongside the bleached brows and partially blocked out lips make this look very daring, slightly alien and unapproachable, linking well to a different approach on a tribal theme and drifting towards a warrior character. I opted to add a splash of colour to the centre of the lips in the style of war paint, to further compliment the tribal warrior theme.

When applying this makeup design, I began by blocking out my eyebrows using spirit gum. However, I did not flatten the eyebrow hairs and simply brushed the spirit gum through as I wanted my eyebrows to look bleached rather that non-existent! After the spirit gum had dried, I swept a small amount of translucent powder over my eyebrows before applying D32 to help add warmth and conceal dark tones in the brows. I powdered again then applied a concealer shade that matched my skin, blending out the edges for a more realistic looking coverage. I then mixed together two shades of Mac Face and Body to create a base slightly paler than my natural skin tone, so the eye makeup would really pop. Once the base was applied, I used my Mac Pro concealer palette to conceal under my eyes and used the darkest shade to create a subtle contour on my cheekbones. I set with powder.

To create the eye makeup design, I began by mapping out a rough shape along the sides of my nose and over my eyebrows using Ben Nye Glam Shadow in the shade Aubergine. I then blended this shade along with Black Brown to add depth. I used a clean fluffy brush to blend the edges and soften. I then used what was left on my concealer brush to conceal my lips before using my finger to simply smear a lip shade down the centre of my lips.

I did not opt o apply any further eye makeup as I not only wanted the makeup to look raw and tribal but I wanted the makeup to also communicate the natural aspects of tribal Africa, as colours worn  on the face are used to communicate status and religion rather than to enhance the natural facial features. 

After creating this look, I decided it was not the look for my character. I think the shape of the lip did not transfer well to the face and the shade was not vibrant enough to compliment my headdress. However, I like the appearance of fresh and glowing skin created by using Mac Face and Body and would also like to experiment with making the eye makeup a bit more elaborate. I think the shapes created around the eye are too structured (maybe too square?) so I would like to soften the shape. 

Look 2

This makeup look was partially inspired by the previous makeup look I designed above. I decided to incorporate the same shape along the sides of the nose and around they eye, but make it more elaborate. As I am using brown feathers with orange tips to feature on my mask/headdress, I decided to integrate orange into the makeup, while till keeping that tribal feel. So I decided to use a bright orange tone under the eye and bring it down onto the cheek- a daring and vivid style.

I kept the rest of the makeup fairly simply, adding to the warrior of nature vibe by highlighting down the centre of the nose and cupids bow heavily. I feel that the gold sheen from the vanilla pigment and the orange tones on the eye added a sense of heat, representative of Africa.

Once again, I used Mac Face and Body as a base makeup due to its light coverage with a dewy look. I feel a full coverage makeup base is not representative of a natural tribal warrior and think the dewy skin can resemble a glow caused from the heat and fighting. It keeps the overall look natural. Once I used A concealer to hidE any dark circle and blemishes, I set the base with translucent powder.

I then blended the bright orange shade from My Mandy Gold Le Maquillage palette under my eyes, adding it more liberally in the centre and blending outwards and downwards. I used my finger to further blend the product for an even blend. I then used brown shades from my Ben Nye Glam Shadow palette to shade down the sides of my nose, into my eyebrow and onto my top lid.

To finish the look, I simply used my finger to apply Vanilla pigment elaborately on the bridge of my nose and on my cupids bow. 

I love the use of orange and brown tones used together in this look! I think the makeup looks hot and fierce. It is definitely more of what I am looking to achieve in my final design. I think the makeup look is raw and natural, while the orange is fierce, representative of the warrior theme. I think the shape created on the eyes and down the nose is quite animalistic, channeling horns or antlers, which I think portrays the tribal theme well. I am going to design more makeup looks incorporating brown and orange tones...

I decided to apply the makeup design I created on my model, as I know the use of highlighting and bright orange shades would appear different on her darker skin tone and eyes. I used Makeup Forever cream foundation in Caramel P4 alongside a mix of Mac Face and Body in shades C3 and N5 to create a perfect base that matched her skin tone. I lightly powdered her skin to set the foundation using Mac Prep+Prime loose powder and applied the eye makeup and highlight products. I decided to add a more aggressive and tribal fell to the makeup that also had a high fashion feel by using a small amount of spirit gum to brush my models eyebrows upwards. As her eyebrows were quite long and black, a tribal feel was created.

Although I am pleased with the shape of the brows ad the use of orange in the makeup, I can see that there is still something missing. I think the use of heavy highlighting in certain areas elongated my models face unlike when practised on myself. I will adapt on this look by maybe adding a deep lip colour to match my models hair? Or completely start again! 

Look 3
This look was inspired by my favourite makeup artist, Pat McGrath. I saw an image of an eye makeup she had created for Margiela A/W 15 which was not only highly creative but the design looked as if it could have been influenced by tribal themes due to the use of bold black markings and eagle wing shape. As I wanted to incorporate a bright orange tone into the makeup, I decided to incorporate into the eye makeup to make the design my own...

My inspiration- Fierce eye makeup by Pat McGrath

I created the shape for this eye makeup by firstly drawing the shape onto a clear pliable sheet. I then cut the shape out and placed the stencil under my eye and secured it in place with surgical tape. On my first attempt at filling in the stencil I had created, I used black Mist FX body paint. I gently pressed the product over the stencil with a small brush. However, when I removed the stencil, the body paint had bled outside the edges... It's consistency was too runny. I removed the makeup and started again and used Mac Blacktrack to fill in the stencil, as it has a much thicker consistency and dries quickly. Although it is not as black as the body paint, I had much better results! Nevertheless, problems occurred when I attempted to blend the Blacktrack into the orange makeup- Blacktrck does not blend easily! To overcome this, I used a small amount of black Supracolor to blend the black and orange tones together. The orange product is a foundation from the Mandy Gold Le Maquillage palette.

I absolutely love this eye makeup I created (although it is nowhere near as good as Pat McGrath's!) But I do think I did pretty well to create quite a neat shape and blend of colours. I would complete this look by applying a sheer foundation, such as Mac Face and Body and a colourless lip, highlighted at the cupids bow. I would really like to use this in my final design as I think it has a real tribal feel, however, I am wary of running out of time...

Inspirational Makeup Artist- Tribal Themes

When researching editorial takes on tribal makeup designs, I came across an editorial called Abracadabra in Vogue Italia (March 2014). Although the feature, photographed by Steven Meisel and featturing the model Saskia de Brauw came under scrutiny for it's use of featuring a Caucasian model donning tribal makeup for being offensive. I looked at this particular feature from an artistic point of view and I think the overall feel was edgy and shocking, which is what I enjoy he most about fashion and makeup. I found the use of colour and texture in the makeup was inspiring. I then decided to search who the makeup artist was for this shoot and it was none other than my favourite- Pat McGrath. I think the use of rusty reds she used, alongside the textures were applied beautifully to be reminiscent to the tribal face paint applied by many tribes by using clay and crushed red rock. Her use of bright colours added warmth and vibrancy. I think the change of textures in the makeup is very effective when following a trial theme and I would like to incorporate different textures into my final makeup look after finding this feature.

Different textures created by Pat McGrath.

References

Image 1- I.kinja-img.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/s--m3Bmv5Lc--/c_fit,fl_progressive,q_80,w_636/t7eipvlyrqskpy9cwckp.jpg [Accessed 8 May 2015].

Image 2- 41.media.tumblr.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://41.media.tumblr.com/1f95447cc3c82f9f274afa5ee3a1aeec/tumblr_n287c2facA1qg9y1fo1_1280.png [Accessed 8 May 2015].

Image 3- I.huffpost.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://i.huffpost.com/gen/1666564/images/o-VOGUE-BLACKFACE-facebook.jpg [Accessed 8 May 2015].

Video- Anon, (2015). [image] Available at: https://youtu.be/Zcl5a9pU3-U [Accessed 8 May 2015].

Inspirational Hair Artist- Nicholas Jurnjack

Nicholas Jurnjack is a French born hair stylist whose hair masterpieces have featured in Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Elle. He has worked on many high fashion catwalks, creating hair art for my favourite designers Alexander McQueen, Jeremy Scott and John Galliano. He has styled supermodels ranging from Kate Moss to Cindy Crawford and celebrities such as J Lo and Alicia Keys. I am absolutely inspired by Jurnjacks designs, which are more of an art form rather than a hair style. I can see why such daring designers such as McQueen have collaborated with him for their runway shows. Below is a mood board depicting some of my favourite runway hairstyles designed by Jurnjack.

Runway Hairstyles by Nicholas Jurnjack

References

Info- Nicolas Jurnjack - Fashion Hair Stylist , Hair Artist, (2015). Nicolas Jurnjack | Hair Stylist | Resume | Biography. [online] Available at: http://nicolasjurnjack.com/biography/ [Accessed 8 May 2015].
Images- Nicolas Jurnjack - Fashion Hair Stylist , Hair Artist, (2015). Nicolas Jurnjack | Hair Stylist | Prêt-a-Porter, Haute Couture Shows. [online] Available at: http://nicolasjurnjack.com/fashion-runway-shows/ [Accessed 8 May 2015].

Tribal Hair Inspiration- Traditional and High Fashion Styles

This post will concentrate on resourcing images of both traditional tribal hairstyles and decorations as well as high fashion interpretations. From doing this, I aim to source popular and significant styles, shapes, materials and applications used to create a tribal hairstyle...

The above images display different forms of hair styling across different tribes. 

Image 1 depicts a woman from the Himba tribe in Namibia. This is a traditional style that is constructed using goat hair, ground red rock, mud and butter. The ground rock, mud and butter are mixed together to a perfect consistency and rolled into dreads then attached to the hair. Goat hair is used a decoration at the bottom of the dread.  

Image 2 shows two young girls from the Kara tribe in Ethiopia. This tribe forms hair into a head band of dreads, which are layed across the head. 

Image 3 depicts a woman from the Kolcho tribe, also in Ethiopia. This is a traditional hairstyle worn by most women of this specific tribe. Small, thin dreads are formed into a short bob hairstyle with a fringe using clay.

Image 4 displays a male from the Himba tribe also. While the women use red rock and mud to create smooth dreads, young men form their hair into plaits using mud and butter. The plaits cover the face. When men from the Himba tribe marry, they wear turbans. 

Image 5 depicts a woman from the Banna tribe in Ethiopia. This tribe is very colourful and vibrant. Both men and women plait their hair and cover sections with brightly coloured hair clips, even worn over the face. 

Image 6 displays a women from the Mursi tribe in Ethiopia. Along with short shaved heads, women keep sections of their hair longer and decorate it with beads. 

After analysing different traditional tribal hairstyles, there are some elements I would like to incorporate into my final design. For example, I love use of earthy red colours used in the hair created from clay and red rock, as well as the use of goat hair. I will now look at modern and high fashion interpretations of tribal hairstyles...

Images 1-5: Vogue Italia 2005, Vogue India 2012 (x2), Australian Vogue 2014, German Vogue.

Whilst researching high fashion interpretations of tribal hair, I noticed that plaits/ braiding is used widely to translate a tribal feel. The plaits are usually formed into elaborate shapes (images 6 and 8). I think this well structured hair style portrays an aggressive and warrior style associated with the word 'tribal', while incorporating different materials such as feathers is representative of the natural forms collated into hair in traditional tribes. I am definitely interested in adding different materials and texture into the hair and think a plait will probably be the best way to do this. I am now going to design a variation of hairstyles influenced by both traditional and modern interpretations of tribal hair...

References

Traditional tribal hair mood moard

Image 1- I.dailymail.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/04/18/article-2607647-1D2A56E800000578-861_964x671.jpg [Accessed 17 Apr. 2015].

Image 2- Lusakavoice.tv, (2015). [online] Available at: http://lusakavoice.tv/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/Dread-headband-These-young-girls-from-the-Ethiopian-Kara-tribe-laid-dreads-across-the-top-of-their-heads-halfway-back-giving-the-illusion-of-a-permanent-headband-which-makes-their-facial-features-really-pop.--428x285.jpg [Accessed 17 Apr. 2015].

Image 3- Lusakavoice.tv, (2015). [online] Available at: http://lusakavoice.tv/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/Braided-bob-If-a-bob-cut-plus-bangs-isn%E2%80%99t-the-cutest-combination-in-the-world-when-you-do-the-whole-thing-in-braids-it-looks-somehow-edgy-and-youthful-at-the-same-time-and-we-love-it.-This-woman-is-from-the-Kolcho-tribe-in-Ethiopia--428x360.jpg [Accessed 17 Apr. 2015].

Image 4- Magazine.africageographic.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://magazine.africageographic.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Himba-women-namibia-alegra-ally-5.jpg [Accessed 17 Apr. 2015].

Image 5- Media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/f7/0b/3c/f70b3c869d844806c1fa401d1cc4c7ec.jpg [Accessed 17 Apr. 2015].

Image 6- Images.inmagine.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://images.inmagine.com/400nwm/iris/imagebrokerrm-242/ptg01315756.jpg [Accessed 17 Apr. 2015].

Info- Mail Online, (2014). Himba tribe hairdos created using goat hair and MUD. [online] Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2607647/Incredible-photos-reveal-elaborate-hairdos-Himba-tribe-created-using-goat-hair-MUD.html [Accessed 17 Apr. 2015].

Info- Lusaka Voice, (2014). 10 of many traditional African hairstyles from tribal women – afkinsider. [online] Available at: http://lusakavoice.com/2014/05/30/10-of-many-traditional-african-hairstyles-from-tribal-women-afkinsider/ [Accessed 17 Apr. 2015].

High fashion hair mood board

Image 1- Encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com, (2015). [online] Available at: https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSMcSPxSQcS9ZH_N2GNA9RFyCdc7JFm_yhptkmXnWBzJY_MWazwUg [Accessed 17 Apr. 2015].

Image 2- 2.bp.blogspot.com, (2015). [online] Available at: https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYqU5PSVMImVwO54M3klGBeUqpw95GrbVmifdyu584sZS94sJUytcou2pAX3K7bI_PiJvyuYGFefUIUGZLz7XFPaRWVYov0rJooiWuXMhhz-suuqvEsX6hX929sIJUmWfx77qO_7Ba-98/s1600/vogue-india-march-2012-wild-fashion-2.jpg [Accessed 17 Apr. 2015].

Image 3- Stylemeindia.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://www.stylemeindia.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/Preeti-Dhata-and-Ninja-Singh-for-Vogue-India-March-2012-9.jpg [Accessed 17 Apr. 2015].

Image 4- Line-mag.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://line-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/vogue-australia-2014-04-apr-181.jpg [Accessed 17 Apr. 2015].

Image 5- 2.bp.blogspot.com, (2015). [online] Available at: https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8xDQdUJ1xkgrH5ZL3C2DoLymwP_FdY-OfLjhSEvG3JgqhIM0dCy-A3s3CLJ2yEAmaMpO2uWjfGyrYSpa_zYBfltGwjEv7ArBxp3-M071yv23oQviaahqNDajzsFdiZHGotqzDOeQm68I/s1600/tumblr_l40ohsXvzh1qb6ud6o1_r1_500.jpg [Accessed 17 Apr. 2015].

Image 6- Stylemeromy.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://stylemeromy.com/cms/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/IMG_2501.jpg [Accessed 17 Apr. 2015].

Image 7- 4hairgain.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://www.4hairgain.com/4HAIRGAIN/2011/12/TRIBAL-fashion-3.jpg [Accessed 17 Apr. 2015].

Image 8- Stylemeromy.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://stylemeromy.com/cms/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/IMG_2504.jpg [Accessed 17 Apr. 2015].

More Tribal Themes in Fashion- Phillip Tracey

Phillip Tracey's 2013 show was engulfed with elaborate hats, masks and headdresses incorporating natural and tribal themes. His hat designs featured conch's, feathers, large tribal masks, cascading nets, horns and ships ashore. Interestingly, he paired the elaborate hats with black suits, inspired by Michael Jackson and used an all black ensemble of models with swept back hair and minimal no makeup look. I think teaming the elaborate hats with suits was quite a lot for the eye and mind to take in, so it was a good idea to keep the hair and makeup simple, to not distract the viewer from the main articles. Keeping the hair and makeup minimal also falls in with the raw and natural themes associated with tribes and nature.

Phillip Tracey 2013

References

Phillip Tracey Moodboard Images
1- Cdni.condenast.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/426x639/Shows/SS2013/London/R-T-W/Philip_Treacy/007_426x639.jpg [Accessed 13 Apr. 2015].
2- Cdni.condenast.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/426x639/Shows/SS2013/London/R-T-W/Philip_Treacy/015_426x639.jpg [Accessed 13 Apr. 2015].
3- Cdni.condenast.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/426x639/Shows/SS2013/London/R-T-W/Philip_Treacy/016_426x639.jpg [Accessed 13 Apr. 2015].
4- Cdni.condenast.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/426x639/Shows/SS2013/London/R-T-W/Philip_Treacy/019_426x639.jpg [Accessed 13 Apr. 2015].
5- Cdni.condenast.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/426x639/Shows/SS2013/London/R-T-W/Philip_Treacy/020_426x639.jpg [Accessed 13 Apr. 2015].
6- Cdni.condenast.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/426x639/Shows/SS2013/London/R-T-W/Philip_Treacy/023_426x639.jpg [Accessed 13 Apr. 2015].
7- Cdni.condenast.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/426x639/Shows/SS2013/London/R-T-W/Philip_Treacy/022_426x639.jpg [Accessed 13 Apr. 2015].
8- Cdni.condenast.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/426x639/Shows/SS2013/London/R-T-W/Philip_Treacy/017_426x639.jpg [Accessed 13 Apr. 2015].

Alexander McQueen's Nature and Tribal Influences

My main fashion influence and my main starting point is Alexander McQueen. Not only is he my favourite fashion designer who I am very passionate about, but he has incorporated natural and tribal elements many of his shows, inspired by the raw, edgy and not so beautiful side of natural and tribal life. I was lucky enough to see Alexander McQueen pieces at the Savage Beauty exhibition at the V&A museum.

The exhibition was absolutely breathtaking. I was amazed at how I reacted to the exhibition, which left me covered in goose bumps and feeling overwhelmed with emotion. McQueen's spirit was captured beautifully and  his masterpieces were translated coherently with the ideas and essence McQueen wanted to create. I am fascinated by the way his mind worked and how he made a unique piece from something which many would dismiss due to it being seen as 'ugly' or too explicitly shocking.

Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty

Alexander McQueen used elements of nature and realness in many of his collections including Eshu (A/W 2000), It's a Jungle Out There (S/S 1998), Widows of Culloden (A/W 2006), The Birds (S/S 1995), VOSS (S/S 2001), The Girl Who Lived in the Tree (A/W 2008), Sarabande (S/S 2007), Natural Dis-tinction Un-natural Selection (S/S 2009) and The Hunger (S/S 1996).

L-R- Eshu, It's a Jungle Out There, Widows of Culloden, The Birds, VOSS, The Girl Who Lived in the Tree, Sarabande, Distinction Un-natural Selection.

Elements of Nature and tribal matters can be seen and expressed though textures such as leathers, feathers and twigs, props such as birds and horns and patterns depicting moths and flowers. Makeup and hair are kept either minimal to represent nature and the natural beauty it holds or wild and expressive, expressing natures more dangerous, wild and predatory side. I will now look further into hair and makeup looks designed for the runway as well as authentic and natural tribal looks...


References

Savage Beauty Images
1- Cdni.condenast.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/426x639/s_v/Savage%20Beauty%2036%20Vogue%2012Mar15%20pr_b_426x639.jpg [Accessed 13 Apr. 2015].
2- Cdni.condenast.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/646x430/a_c/4-McQueen-Savage-Beauty-16Mar15-Victoria-and-Albert_646x430.jpg [Accessed 13 Apr. 2015].
3- Cdni.condenast.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/646x430/a_c/10-McQueen-Savage-Beauty-16Mar15-Victoria-and-Albert_646x430.jpg [Accessed 13 Apr. 2015].
4- Cdni.condenast.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/426x639/s_v/Savage%20Beauty%208%20Vogue%2012Mar15%20pr_b_426x639.jpg [Accessed 13 Apr. 2015].
5- Cdni.condenast.co.uk, (2015). [online] Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/426x639/s_v/Savage%20Beauty%2020%20Vogue%2012Mar15%20pr_b_426x639.jpg [Accessed 13 Apr. 2015].

Alexander McQueen Moodboard Images
1- Blog.metmuseum.org, (2015). [online] Available at: http://blog.metmuseum.org/alexandermcqueen/images/McQ.1013a%E2%80%93d_mcq.1013.AV1.JPG [Accessed 13 Apr. 2015].
2- Farm7.static.flickr.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6228/6304386992_b3b4f39e6c_z.jpg [Accessed 13 Apr. 2015].
3- Showstudio.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://showstudio.com/img/blog_articles/401-600/474_640n.jpg?1308304557 [Accessed 13 Apr. 2015].
4- Media.style.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://media.style.com/image/ts/slideshows/fashionshows/S2008RTW/AMCQUEEN/RUNWAY/320/480/00520m.jpg [Accessed 13 Apr. 2015].
5- 26.media.tumblr.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://26.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_kxznziuSej1qak49ao1_500.jpg [Accessed 13 Apr. 2015].
6- Media.style.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://media.style.com/image/ts/slideshows/fashionshows/F2008RTW/AMCQUEEN/RUNWAY/320/480/00100m.jpg [Accessed 13 Apr. 2015].
7- Blog.metmuseum.org, (2015). [online] Available at: http://blog.metmuseum.org/alexandermcqueen/images/SL.15.2011.9.84a,-d_mcq.1855.AV1.jpg [Accessed 13 Apr. 2015].
8- Media.style.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://media.style.com/image/ts/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009RTW/AMCQUEEN/RUNWAY/265/400/00010fullscreen.jpg [Accessed 13 Apr. 2015].